>I like to add a little resin to my coffee, and Siraya Tenacious is particularly nice.Last Thread: >>2793796>Your print failed? Go to:https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/>Calibrate your printer.https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.htmlIf that doesn't help you solve your problems, post:>A picture of the failed part>Printer make & model>Filament type/brand>Slicer & slicer settings>What printer should I buy? [32/03/90 :detadpU tsaL]Do your own research, these are just popular and available options.All controversial printers and brands have been removed from the list for your safety.DIY: https://reprap.org/wiki/SLA: >>>/tg/3dpg>Where can I get things to print?https://www.thingiverse.com/https://thangs.com/https://printables.com/https://grabcad.com/https://www.yeggi.com/https://cults3d.com/https://www.stlfinder.com/https://google.com/T*legr*m>What CAD software should I use?Free to anyone: Fusion360, Onshape, TinkerCAD, FreeCADFree to me: Autodesk Inventor, AutoCAD, Solidworks, Rhino, Solid EdgeAutistic /g/oobers: OpenSCAD, OpenJSCADMesh free-forming and modeling: BlenderArchitects: Sketchup>What slicer should I use?For everyone: Cura, PrusaSlicer, BambuStudio for Bambu owners.For enthusiasts: SuperSlicer, OrcaSlicerFor autists: Pleccer/SuperPleccer, Kiri:Moto, FullControlLegacy Pastebin (Last updated 1255 days ago): https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5#346
Aw fuck. Thought I had the extruder grinding problem sorted. Going to tune retraction distance further. If not, then dual gear direct drive extruder.
>>2800455Kek turned down maximum retractions from 80 to 40 and re-printed the problematic top part of this cat toy, which went perfectly. Then tried to print the whole thing, which failed in the exact same way. Must be some height-dependent error. I guess it will be dual gear direct drive extruder time.
Is Wood Filler-X viable as putty to use to fill in seams etc.Or do I need to order Tamiya putty?
>>2800518I always had good success in the past using DAP Plastic Wood filler. It fills well, smooths easily, sands beautifully, and always adhered well to the ABS I was using at the time. It's been a long while, but I'd still recommend it. Given the experience, I would expect most "wood filler" to work well.
>>2800502look at the filament path when the nozzle is at that height...see any unusual bends? Cables getting stretched? Connectors being pulled?
I want the prusa mk4. Is it a good buy in 2024? Is there a better printer for the money?
>>2800595Since nobody answered me, I figured I'd just order it. I'll let you know how good it is when it comes.
>>2800597Massive waste of money, enjoy your perfectly good $300 printer, at least it's not a piece of shit.
>>2800595>>2800597Having owned it and other printers, it's overpriced for what you get. A lot of noob handholding you only need for the first day or so. Decent prints. Its well tested, but like you can achieve the same results for $350. Seeing as you already bought it, a weekend of putting it together. It comes in a million pieces. It's overwhelming.
>>2800600>waiting 10 whole minutes for a reply on /diy
>>2800600>>2800601>>2800602I feel like this isn't his first prusa. I tend to ignore prusafags. They'd never buy anything else, even to their own detriment, so fuck em.
>>2800613The beard-cult has done a lot of damage to the industry as a whole.
>>2800617Im still pretty new. what research has Joseph Prusa done. So far all I’ve gathered is that he’s not Chinese.
>>2800646Jobeard was very active in early RepRap days. One of his notable achievements was the first designs for practical PCB bed heaters, which became the standard and are still in use on the majority of FDM printers. He began providing kits for his own Mendel derivative, the Prusa Mendel, which would later lead to the the Prusa i3. His kits were very well optimized for cost, they were simple and very affordable compared to other offerings of the time, and used very high quality components where necessary. Those first few generations of the Prusa i3 were some of the best printers available at the time, they were great value. From the 2015 Prusa "Mk1" up through the 2019 Prusa Mk3, they were widely touted as some of the best consumer printers that existed. Everything cheaper came with trade-offs, everything more expensive was hard to justify by comparison. So Prusa just exploded, they grew massively, they became a powerhouse in the industry with a genuine cult following. With the Prusa branding and Prusa putting his name on his products, he basically became the mascot for the brand. His face is one of the most recognizable in consumer 3D printing. All the while, Prusa maintained a staunch commitment to opensource hardware and software, with the work of him and his company bolstering the industry as a whole, and Prusa-derived features being found in virtually all modern FDM printers. So, naturally, the company has grown, they've a massive headquarters and huge manufacturing capability, and their R&D department is staggering. keklol /s They're still in Jobeard's little farmhouse, it's packed to the gills in the genuine-fire-hazard sense, and the R&D cycle has been choked to death. The Mk4 was rushed AF and in many ways disappointing, they no longer make competitively priced products, and the XL was delayed to death and still released unfinished. Jobeard lost face in a big way, they weren't prepared for other companies to actually make good printers at lower prices.
>>2800597At least it's not an XL.
>>2800651Pretty much this. The mk4 is mid at best, which is fine. But it's a $400 printer boxed as a $1200 label because of the brand name. That's not the worst of it though. I'm fine with their pricing. But the still operate out of a fucking barn and tents. You'd think he'd buy a bigger warehouse but he chooses not to. Buy the kit, not to save money, but so you know it's assembled properly. He'll blame carriers for "shipment damage" despite the wrong bolts because he hires teenagers at minimum wage. I don't hate them so much as, just their fan base. They act like prusa is the best and only printer in existance but other printers print better, faster, with more features, for less money, with the same and better quality. Printers die after about 20k hours, which is about 3-4 months of solid 24/7 printing. If I can buy a multi color printer for $500 why would I spend $800 on a monochrome printer and another $350 for the color attachment?
>>2800453Ender 3 V3 SE on sale. Do I get it? What would I be in for?
>>2800687It's very versatile.
>>2800687it's ok if you want an entry-level printer and don't think you'll want to modify it (doesn't have extrusions for easy t-slot nuts). while the earlier printers are less refined, if you may want to modify it in the future, get an ender 3 v2 pro instead. or better yet, a sovol sv06. you can get them at a decent price through ebay. the k1 is also on sale if you like, though it's still like three times the price of the v3 se. you could try waiting until they drop it even further, as it's been discontinued in favour of the k1c.t. works at jaycar
>>2800687Spend $150 more and get the a1 and it will curb stomp both the ender and prusa.
Alright anons, after some consideration I finally pulled the trigger. What are your bets how shitty the chink rails will be?
>>2800846>1% offOnly the Chinese
>>2800573Thanks, straightened up some cables and installed a cable chain on the most suspect one for peace of mind.Ultimately I think my problem is a shitty stock Ender3 extruder, and filament routing and too much retraction is too much for it. Turning on this "combing mode" setting seemed to help by eliminating internal retractions.Appreciate the many replies and experience.
>>2800964>cura and renaming everythingThe equivalent in slic3r variants is probably 'avoid crossing walls'. I like this setting. It should be the default imo.Thats almost certainly not whats borking your print above, but it is a good parameter to use anyway.Excess retraction might be your problem, but it shoudn't just suddenly start doing it at a specific level if it was excessive retraction.Your issue looks like the filament path gets to a height where the bowden becomes constricted, or the nozzle temperature drops too much.
>>2800453 (OP)all i wanted was faster flowrate
What heated chamber temp should I use for polycarbonate? Can't really find any answers online and the manufacturer had nothing on it either
>>2801022I think the same as your bed temperature is usually a safe bet? That’s what it’s like for PEEK if I recall. But the cooling fan might then not be cold enough for bridging.
>>2801022If you go too hot your stepper motors etc won't last. If you could quantify MTBF vs temperature as well as the value of product quality, there might be an economic optimal temperate. But those things are hard to define, so it's probably better to pick a popular, safe-ish, easy temperature like (40 or 60C) and adjust your designs to work with that level of warping.
>>2801010How did this happen >>2800846Dual z belt should be nice. All the rails come from china. unless you’re krautanon, im sure you will be fine with the tolerances. >>2800651Thanks for the rundown. Almost bought a used i3 but can’t imagine it would have shipped well.
>>2801010is this some sort of air cooling? also surprised anyone was still using a laser cut acrylic printer.>>2801041are there any common printers that have the main steppers outside the enclosure? the k1 has the z stepper below the enclosure, but the xy steppers are definitely inside it. maybe it's easier to just put an air/water cooling shroud around the steppers. the extruder though, i think buying a high-temp stepper (or a reluctance/induction servo with no rare earth magnets) is the way to go for the extruder instead of bowden.>>2801046>Almost bought a used i3 but can’t imagine it would have shipped welli tried to buy a 2nd hand acrylic-frame prusa myself, it broke badly, never got my money back lmao, bought an ender 3 v2 instead and it's been fine. 2nd hand printers are a terrible idea for noobs anyhow.
>>2800708Thank. Seems fine for me for now.
>>2800693What are we looking at?Jizz printer?
>>2801084Someone tried to fix the bowden tube with hot glue
>>2801062Its an aquarium blower being used as a partfan.At the time it was commonly called a byrd, or maybe bird partfan iirc, this was a few years ago.It's not a bad way to do a partfan, but your flex pipe needs to be a fairly specific type; flexible enopugh, wide enough, but not stiff or heavy, and the outlet was typically a ~6mm copper tube, stuffed into the flex pipe, then the other end was bent into a circle with little holes all pointing inward and down... which surrounded the nozzle. Which of course (unfortunately) heated the copper, so the air blown wasnt cold.... plus bending it isnt easy to do, neither is drilling the holes just right. So most people just print a shroud of some kind and plug the flex tube into that.If you decide to try it make sure you buy the biggest model possible of the type you see there; otherwise they are too weak for anything but very precise blowing.
>>2801093my bad, its 'berd' thats the right keywordhttps://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=berd&page=1
>>2801046For the rails I just hope the carriages won't be bad quality, there was an option for HIWIN rails but I ended up not getting those. Also yes z belt will be nice because when I installed oldham couplings some time ago I noticed one of the lead screws is bent as fuck.
>>2800687Ender 3 whatever is a piece of trash. Get a k1 and up or else you're getting toys. I still got to throw my ender 3 to the trash.
>>2801010I watch this thread and post all the cringe builds, admins of this channel sometimes repost themhttps://t.me/threepn2
>>2800518Also I forgot to ask: what is the point of putting vaseline on one side of the model (then putting putty on the other part of the model)? I'm looking at garage kit tutorials and they don't specify why.
>>2800687I have an Ender 3, an Ender 3 V3 SE at work, and two V400s. I wish I spent the extra 50 bucks and got the V3 SE instead of the 3because the constant tinkering and bullshit upgrades are a waste of time just for 60 mm/s speeds without major upgrades. It is so goddamn loud and I have to replace the motherboard to silence it.If you want something that is quick, clean, bare bones, and gets the job done then I would definitely recommend the V3 SE. I almost wish I got three V3 SEs instead of another v400 because they are just so damn nice. I've had zero issues with mine and failing to get PETG to work on my Ender 3 while the V3 SE just worked perfectly out of the box was infuriating.
So what the fuck is the point of an Ender 3 anymore? The V3 SE is infinitely better and so little more. Why?
Anybody ever do a ratrig build? I'm getting started on a 500mm version. I have the frame and the electronics panel done. The instructions are easy enough to follow, I'm just wondering what I'm in for post-build but for commissioning the thing - i.e., first prints, tuning, tips, etc.It's my "first" (I have a Qidi, but those come fully assembled) Core X/Y, and while the typical X/Z gantry systems are easy enough to understand, I'm still a little out of my element as far as one of these goes.
would it be a retarded idea to make an attachment for mounting a engraving pen onto an ender 3 to cut circuit boards? not the holes obv, just the trace patternsi already do this to print out black and white stuff such as schematics and amazon link QR codes and memes using regular pens and it just sticks on using a pair of hard drive magnets and works well enough
>>2801844>500mmEndless tensioning.>>2801820Buying it used for cheap, then turning it into any of the 5000 projects that use it as base to build from upon. As a printer it's dead.
The k1 still beats the latest ender 3Imagine not being able to print abs in the year 2024
>>2802021some things work okay enough with a pei plate and cranking the bed up to 80c, not large parts though
>>2800207I'm struggling to understand the purpose of this. If it's meant to look nice why not make it look nice? Like you could add wood filler, sand it and paint it or something. Or make it an intersting pattern with exposed infill or similar.But cool book collection chuddie. Jealous of that hard cover Solzhenitsyn
>>2802023usually you can just throw a blanket over a bedslinger and it prints without warping abs. Problem with the v3 SE is that it has a PTFE tube in the hotend that can melt with high temp printing.
How do I know that what I have is petg and I didn't get tricked
>>2802030A cabinet face frame is meant to do two things:>It's prettier than the plywood's endgrain>It stiffens the planks so they don't bend as easily under loadThe purpose was to test if I could achieve these things with PLA.Turns out, mostly no. PLA is stiff but even with glue along the length of the mating surface, there's still more flex in the shelves than I'd like. Also it's only marginally less offensive to look at than endgrain.
>>2802125Maybe other joint designs would improve stiffness. PLA should be ideal for that application.This guy goes over some design: https://youtu.be/fSISiR5XIbk
I finally found a filament fuser that works reliably.Stupid purchase but I can't say that it doesn't work. it will realistically never pay itself off, considering it probably can't fuse engineering filaments and almost all I print is ABS(~15usd a kilo, this fuser was $45 on amazon).
>>2802163I just don't see how that visible bump is going to make it through the throat of my heatbreak.
>>2802163>50 dollars for a shitty tool to save pennies holy shit
>>2802167I checked with a spare genuine v6 hotend I've got (admittedly a bit well used, but not typically a wear item) and it handles it just fine. It measured 1.78mm which is far from unreasonable.If't you're talking about the extrusion, just scalpel it off.>>2802169I'm not claiming it to be a rational purchase, at least not for most filaments, just stating that it's pretty much the only fuser I've found that works.I don't have taulman 910 spool ends left (got into the habit of tossing those), but next time I open a new spool I'll check. If it can fuse that it can fuse pretty much anything short of straight polycarb/peek.
>>2802171>1.78mmBetter than I expected, should be totally usable.
>>2802163>micro ni**ers
>>2800453i'd like to print ceramic to use as metal moldis it realistic?
>>2802205maybe
>>2802205I've not seen it done at a DIY level. Commercially there are powder bed/binder jet printers that actually print sand-casting molds and cores, it's pretty cool stuff. The idea is fine, might be doable, but kind of unnecessary when we can already go from regular ol' plastic 3D prints to metal casting pretty easily, whether you're printing sand-casting patterns or sacrificial patterns for investment casting.
>>2802205Print a plastic mold and use it to make your clay mold by hand.
>>2802163>candle>capricorn tubealso reliable filamente fuser>>2802212This. Use cooking spray or something so you can release the clay from the mold
printed this funny little boi
What's better abs or pla+cf
>>2802287I'd pick pla+cf because https://youtu.be/oX4up29xUuw?t=199
>>2802287pet-cf.What's your budget and printer?
>>2802293To really get any strength out of ABS it has to be printed hot, fast and in an actively heated chamber at near 50C.t. company has owned a mojo since around 2013, and it was always stronger than any of what my i3's could produce out of PLA or abs at the time.Only until recently have we begun seeing printers that can both reliably and strongly print abs at an affordable price.
>>2802287Better for what?
>>2801126Don’t be mean to the ender 3’s they’re good boys. >>2801820Super energy entry level is what for I’m sorry you were hurt by an ender 3. It’ll be ok baby. >>2802078It’s says it on the spool and it’s stringy as fuck. This mushroom head is petg off an ender 3. I slowed it down for the top half but should have printed the whole thing super slow. The strings don’t bother me as much as the seams, the bubbles and the bad layer adhesion. I tried vase mode once but the result was a single wall, no infill. Very weak.
>>2802363This looks like shit. Dare i say, an excellent shitpost.
>>2802078Density.bring out the beakers and drug scales
>>2802310>Photo of a fortune cookie message, but it's unreadable>CRT TV>using enormous speakers as a table for the TV>item precariously placed on top of TV with a cable hanging a long way in midair>useless doormat>3D printer on the damn floor>FOOD on the damn FLOOR>no rhyme or reason to the placement of items on that cube shelfAnd is that an exterior door? Is all this shit in your foyer? What kind of building is this???Anxiety is mounting over the content of this image. I will lose sleep tonight.
>>2802384Cheapest apartment I had back in 2012 while a student. That door leads to a hallway and a shared bathroom/kitchen. I was eating on the floor as the printer was being built on the floor, I had no desk space to do it in.
>>2802385Did you find an outlet for your creative genius and accomplish a great deal?
>>2802021>the latest ender 3That’s not the latest one. The V3 KE is the more expensive one, and the flat V3 is more recent and better again. If your entire point is:>$500 printer better than $200 printerThen woopdee doo.
>>2800453what is the best 3d printer to buy for a gay man?
>>2802458Mars 4 or Saturn 3
I'm an idiot. I'm trying to find something similar to this (in blue), and I don't know what to search for. If not I'll have to design something, but obviously if it already exists I don't have to. Any ideas?
wtfthese are seamsorcaslicergeneric pla, 210/60C, 0.8 nozzledoesnt happen with petgive tried a bunch of different options, but they just dont go away.
>>2802459pov faggot gets aids
>>2802520seems to be retraction length related
>>2802525retraction: 0.4mm, but was 0 earlier seam gap: 0scarf: offgoing to try: wipe on loop: off
>>2802530>retraction: huh?set it to 5mm and go from there
>>2802534lol, are you a bowden enjoyer? 5mm is pretty huge for my direct master-race. iirc 9mm pulls the filament out of the melt zone and clusterfucks it just below the drive gears.Besides; im not getting any stringing or blobbing, so i dont need retraction at all.I did also experiment with that earlier to make sure it wasnt that. It's not a retraction problem.I might need to try this print in petg just to be sure it wasnt happening before and i just didnt notice.But thats a fucking huge crevasse, somehtings not right.
>>2802363Holy shit anon, dry your fucking filament. Are you printing it in some jungle? I've had pet out in air for weeks and it didn't look that bad.
>>2802508Why is it made out of 2 parts? It's not holding on to anything from the bottom.
>>2802508What is the point of this thing? It'll fall out top and if it never will, it can be done in a single part.By the time of this post you could've created it 60 times over, so i hope you just did that anyways.>>2802520And this options were?Check your flow ratio, do a pressure advance calibration and reduce your seam gap further.
>>2800693I feel like this should be the OP in the next Abominations thread
>>2802459story behind the face injury guy, did he drink it or wat?
>>2800687I had an Ender 3 Pro in the past and I am glad I sold it. Needed too much maintenance and had some weird bugs in the firmware such as destroying my prints when it was supposed to finish. Maybe V3 SE is better but personally would go for a different brand
>>2802580
>>2802580A small amount of resin was left on the back of his hand without him noticing, and he brushed it against his face, giving him some nice chemical burns.
>>2801325bls respond
>>2802605What the fuck gives you the idea of putting vaseline on your print? The fuck are you talking about?
>>2802607easier insertion I think?
why?
Did custom 3d prints and like a fool I thought I was a happy camper until I saw the electric bill. Turns out these machines can use like 1 kilowatts per hour.
>>2802655A typical 3D printer only has a 240-350W PSU. The crazy big nonsense can be higher, but even the overengineered heapofshit PrusaXL has a maximum power draw of only 720W. Most printers pull under 100W average while printing, under 50W is not unusual.
>>2802659I wouldn't be surprised if the k1 drew 1 kw per hour. It's just a coincidence my electric bill shot up after I started using it a lot...
what's your excuse for not using a bambu x1 carbon?
>>2802662Nope, not even close. The K1 has a 300W PSU, and draws <100W on average while printing.
>>2802662Actually the K1 Max can top out at just shy of 1kw, 950W. That's the absolute peak and will never actually be encountered. It'll pull over 800W for the initial bed heat up, but it takes under 5 minutes to reach temp. The typical print still averages <100W/hr start to finish.
>>2802580Tell me that stuff doesn't look delicious
>>2802659XL has segmented bed for that reason. they only power what is needed. smart huh?
>>2802580Most people develop a sensitivity to resin, and reactions only get worse from there.
heres some empirical for you theoreticians:my i3, 220x220 bed, bambu nozzle, 24V system, will reset the meanwell 350W PSU if I tell nozzle and bed to heat at the same time.... which incidentally goes from 25C to 220/70 in about 60 seconds each if done separately.... so basically the psu overloads and resets if i do both 100% bed and 100% nozzle simultaneously. This never happens in a normal warmup sequence.Try it yourself and see if your printer PSU resets.M140 60M104 220The wattmeter i have attached to the printer bounces around a lot, but from memory i see 150-200W when under max load (startup or bed, and then nozzle), and about 100-150W thereafter.According to the wattmeter, at $0.40/KWh, I have used 32.6KWh at a cost of $13.06...since it last rolled over or i last reset it... idk when that was, but it was in the order of weeks, at least.iirc i did a time/cost calculation a few weeks ago, and entered it into orca.... which says 0.006$/h (electrical cost only)
>>2802744>$0.40/KWhWhere in the fuck do you live? That's almost 3x the national average here in the USA.
>>2802745Australia, so adjust for currency conversion too.You got me wondering, so i went and checked, turns out my billing is closer to AU$0.33KWh
>>2802607every anime figurine garage kit tutorial say they use vaseline on one end and put putty on the other when they glue two things together. But the tutorials never elaborate on why
>>2802789Link us one such tutorial.
>>2802789So you're asking about something totally fucking unrelated to the wood putty question?What you're asking about is a technique used to fill joints in a precise manner before actually gluing them. Vaseline is used on one piece, epoxy or other filler is applied to the other piece, and they are joined. When the filler has set, the vaseline allows them to be separated. The filler can now be cleaned up if necessary, and the two pieces can be joined with a strong adhesive. This technique is roundabout as fuck and I've only ever seen the most autistic 'tards do it, it is a huge fucking waste of time.Wood putty should not be used to join 3D printed parts, don't conflate wood putty with epoxy. Wood putty is good for filling seams and concealing layer lines, but it is not a good adhesive.If all you're doing is printing anime figurines and shit, consider >>>/tg/3dpg
>>2802794so it's used as a release agent to get a flat surface? lmao.Whatever happened to just using thick superglue?
>>2802796Model makers are turboautists. They want to make the glue joint, refine the shape of the glue joint, carefully sand the glue-joint, and color-match the glue joint, all before actually gluing the fucking joint.
How long do 3d printed ABS/ASA parts actually last in an enclosed voron build? Right now we're switching about one PETG part every year on our old MK3s and i surely don't want to partly disassemble a whole voron that often.
>>2802801Why would you not buy a built printer instead of a voron if tinkering's not your thing?t. 2.4v2 sits collecting dust while my qidi xmax3 runs almost constantly.
>>2802791Muntoe's garage kit>"Also related is Vaseline and cotton balls (and 70 isopropyl alcohol, not pictured). Because putty is so sticky if you try to fill gaps it will usually stick to both pieces. Vaseline is usually applied to one side of the figure and putty to the other side. When you push the pieces together, putty will only stick to one side of the figure and conform to fill the gap. Cotton balls and rubbing alcohol are used to clean the Vaseline off the resin"They use putty to help fill the gaps when glueing. >>2802794After watching video tutorials, I think I'm starting to understand. >use vaseline + putty so you can fill in the gaps when glueing two parts together on the later step>take out the putty part and sand down unnecessary extra putty>glue the two parts together>>2802796I'm guessing when you have rounder surfaces you'll need some filler to make it more perfect looking.Thank you anons for being patient on my retardedness.
>>2802805How is tinkering the same as repetitive ikea building?That aside, show me a single prebuilt that doesn't push some kind of proprietary "solution" in your face? Either it's simply software or some nozzle you won't be able to buy anywhere else.
>>2802815ok.>muh proprietary shit.It's why I went with qidi over bambulab. It's just klipper. the hotend you can replace yourself, though qidi's nozzles are made by phaetus and I've yet to wear one out, plated copper nozzle or hardened. Though you do you.
>>2802818I mean, it's not even Klipper, but their modified version of it. However if it works for you, all good. I'm just too tired of it all and am looking for a "the" instead of "a" machine. By all rationale, i'd just keep printing PLA/PETG and ordering Nylon for heavy lifting parts.
>>2802818>qidihow does it compare to the sv08?
Note to self, and PSAwith orca: if edges that shouldnt be curling... are curling: disable scarfing around entire wall.
i haven't printed anything in like 3 months
least horny 3D printing enthusiast
>>2802653why??
So, are there any metals/alloys that could feasibly be fed into and used by a standard plastics printer, or at least mixed into a filament material to achieve... whatever you'd achieve by printing with these things?
>>2803073Sure, there are filaments that are made of metal particles joined in a binder. You print with the filament, throw your print into a kiln, and burn off the binder material while sintering the metal particles together. End result, metal parts. It's roundabout, comes with limitations, and requires a good use by the use of a good kiln or external service. BASF Ultrafuse is a notable example, but they don't even publish burnout and sintering info, you're expected to send in your parts to them to finish out. Feels really stupid at a hobby level, I get it in a more professional setting though. Virtual Foundry on the other hand is on the other end of the spectrum, geared toward DIY and hobbyists. You need a good kiln with proper controls to do the burnout and sintering procedure, but it is totally doable at home. Don't even need a very high-temp kiln, Virtual Foundry's Stainless Steel and Inconel filaments with sinter at a measly 1260C, pretty much all but the cheapest and shittiest kilns should manage that with ease, and even the cheapest shittiest kilns will still handle their copper and bronze options. There have also been experiments with running solder or similar low-temp alloys through FDM printers, and with considerable effort there has been success, albeit pointless. The examples I've seen had no practical purpose, just tech demos.
>>2803073Go a step ahead and build (3d print) a small lathe and mill. You might get a result that won't melt down after 10 shots.
>>2803101>He wants to 3D print metal>That means he wants to build gunsI'm disappointed in you, anon.
>>2803105Fuck off, tryhard.
>>2803141Not my fault you're a fucking retard, go talk to your parents about how they failed you.
DO NOT PUT RESIN IN YOUR COFFEE! It makes your balls fall off>>2801325Dunno about vaseline, but you can make resin prints with clear resin look a bit smoother and clearer by rubbing them with mineral oil.
>>2802891Don't have an sv08. All I can tell you is it's still rather uncanny for me to have a printer loaded with nylon cf/pet-cf on standby. As of late I only interact with it when loading filament, picking up a part, or forgetting that I left some supports on the build plate like right now.Mind you, I'm not recommending this over any other printer, this is just my personal experience with it over the past 10 months.The nozzles are a nonstandard length, but the stock ones are plated copper/hardened steel and I haven't had any issues with them.
>>2803218I did have a "recall" for my unit, where they just sent me a revised z axis drive mount in the mail. It just showed up one day. They didn't email about it, they didn't post anything on their site, they didn't even shoot me a text or a smoke signal. Wasn't until reading the instruction for this metal bar like a complete mongoloid that I realized what it was.
Genuine question; what's holding open source advocates like >>2802815 back from buying a machine they like hardware wise and putting in a new board, capable of all their wishes? I see a lot of reddit threads talking about (not) being able to flash certain manufacturers' boards, but seldom to just replace it all.
>>2803235You absolutely can, and some do. Easily underestimated amount of work for some, depending on what board was there to begin with and what you're replacing it with there can be substantial wiring work. For some people customizing firmware is a nightmarish suggestion, way out of reach of their comfort zone. For someone who isn't intimidated by writing their own Marlin config from scratch (or diving into the deep-end of Klipper) and crimping a few dozen JST or DuPont connectors, it's totally doable. I've put new mainboards in a few printers, completely rewired a couple of them from top to bottom. It's a lot of work and easy to fuck up, but not very difficult to do it well if you take your time with it.
>>2803237>the deep-end of Klippermaybe i just dont remember my time with marlin, but when i came back to 3dprinting after 6 years i found it extremely easy to get into klipper.Sure you probably need to spend a week on and off modifying the printer.cfg if you have never done it before and like to consider every single option, or have to set u a board with no template. But once you have that config life is easy. Conversely with marlin i distinctly remebder the process of diffing the fucking configuration.h, and it was always a pain in the ass even after i set up a script to open a GUI diff and then use brain to decide which side of the screen to keep.Klipper isnt like that at all. Theres a config file... or multiple config files if you feel like breaking them into several.... thats it. No compiling bullshit, no diff, none of that unbelievably tedious if else marlin code nesting. You edit the printer.cfg, press save and restart, and your printer is ready a few seconds later.>DuPont connectorsThe evil assholes of connectors.JST FTW.But they both have a 2.54 pin pitch, so it really doesnt matter till you feel like recrimping the duponts as JST so they stop falling off.>It's a lot of work and easy to fuck up, but not very difficult to do it wellThis.Rolling your own board into an old printer is core to the full 3d experience.>>2803235what is that board... at first i was all 'ew, pins', but now i'm like 'mmmm piiins'pity its inherently dupont filth.
>>2803242It's preference, I know some people really like Klipper even though I cannot relate. I hate working with Klipper, it slows me down and makes things harder than they should be. Nothing I want to do is ever done from printer.cfg. Marlin is just so easy to work with, jam packed with features (many that Klipper hasn't and won't), and easily customizable to absolutely any extent. The code is clear, easy to understand, and well commented. I didn't have to sit down and read a tutorial or watch a video to start fucking around with Marlin. If I need to enable a feature or change an option in Marlin, I just do it, there's extensive documentation built right in if I need it. If I need to enable a feature in Klipper, I'm pulling up the docs online and hoping that what I want already exists and has been explained, or else I'm diving into the code to figure out how to do something that would've been done in 60 seconds on a Marlin install. Klipper doesn't have that feature? OH LOOK NOW WE'RE COMPILING KLIPPER JUST LIKE WE HAVE TO WITH MARLIN. They say it's easy to add new features, and they've made it easy by using multiple programming languages and spreading shit out. Personally I call that bloat, and it sure as shit hasn't made anything easier. I'm sure the devs who made it are very comfortable with it, but I'm definitely not. Marlin though? I didn't make Marlin, but it's clear as day to me. How every piece works is just so straightforward, makes it very easy to add new features or modify existing ones. Recently I decided to make a servo-locked probe, thought it'd be fun and make a nice noise, and it does! But there's no support for such a thing in Marlin or Klipper. Took me 15 minutes to add it as a probe option in my Marlin fork, but Klipper? Fuck dude, I'm still not sure where to start after having spent more time reading their docs and pouring through the codebase than I did just fucking adding it to Marlin.It's just preference, comfort level, and use-case.
>>2803242Oh, that board, that's a Recore. It's an "all-in-one" Klipper board, with both the host and client on one board, much like the BTT Manta or MKS Skipr, but for more money. For example, a fully-loaded Manta 2.0 with 8 TMC2209s runs $100. The equivalent Recore would be the Recore itself, a pair of their "Restep" stepper modules, and their "Rexfer" wifi module, a total of $200, or $218 currently because the main shop is out of stock so gotta go Fabreeko, and ultimately giving you less I/O and less expansion capability. Cool board, not competitive.
>>2803237>>2803255Seems straightforward. I expected more screens and load cell buts.>>2803242Record A7. It's gimmick seems to be an internal RTC instead of using an extra chip. Got a few fans in our maker space recently.I like the clik mates on Prusa mk4 machines, unfortunately they're quite pricey for DIY nonsense.
>>2802801ABS is a far better better plastic that PET
>>2803311Only in almost every single way imaginable while also being the cheapest filament there is, yeah. It's the only filament I use anymore, seems stupid to use anything else for general printing.
What is a good printer that could print this huge piece?It's about 32cm x 18cm.It fits on an Ultimaker S7's build plate but my friend's S7 who was going to print it for me is acting up and wont print.I'd like to get a printer for myself that could print big stuff like this but most printers I've found in the sub $1k range are around 25cm x 25cm
Can a lack of part cooling cause stringing?
>>2803255I hear you.It was probably good that I was away from 3dprinting for so long: prior to leaving i used marlin, and kept thinking i should try klipper (8...or was it 16bit boards were still the thing then)It wasnt until I made a fresh start several years later that I figured I'd just go direct to klipper.The jinja syntax is a pain in the ass, but thats only relevant if you want to write a reasonably complex custom g-code script.Flashing and CAN is fairly trivial... unless you have an integrated MCU/SBC like I do, and it's tty design happens to require you to juggle a bin between the two TF slots.I've only had to do it once though. Until they make another radical change to the codebase I may never need to do it again.If you view the configs in mainsail/fluidd: every header has the specific help doc linked to it, and they are quite well documented.There seems to be a template printer.cfg for almost every commercial printer. So it's easy for us Frankensteins to tweak our monsters.I'm surprised you needed to watch a video, but frankly I did too; for initial acclimatisation and learning the general feel of it.I'm not sure what featues klipper doesnt have, but its difficult to imagine it 'wont' unless they arent congruent with its intended purpose.>servo locked probeSounds like something thats already available/adaptable from a bltouch style probe.Maybe you assumed you need to read the code when what you actually should have done is look at printer.cfgs and their docs?If you have a board specific pin schematic, pretty much everything is pretty easy to do in the cfg.>>2803260>>2803264fancy
>>2803255https://www.klipper3d.org/BLTouch.html?h=touch#bl-touch-clones
>>2803347Can make it worse.
Petg gets a bad rap because of all the fake petg out there probably. Make sure you're getting your petg certified or from s good brand.
>>2803237100% this and I’ve literally done it multiple times. I remember back in like 2014-2016 or so, it was actually of some benefit to upgrade the old 8 bit ramps 1.4 boards to one of the various 32 bit options that existed pre klipper like the radds, one of the arduino due ramps boards, the duet, etc. it’s really not that hard, just tedious. Worth investing in a good crimp tool though; when I finally spent the money on an actual decent one instead of the shitty $20 chinese ratcheting one from amazon I had been using my life became much easier. The software side is a little trickier but not really and nowadays it’s so easy because everything’s documented much more, there’s tools for everything, and youtube/reddit/forum tutorials everywhere
>>2803333At that point, why don't you just trim down <sheet of choice>?>>2803383>>2803237Do even things like strain gauge get recognized without too much hassle these days? I have a hard believing it got *that* easy.
I'm just getting a cheap hardened steel nozzle and will just print nylon from now on. I can do that because I have a k1 and not a shitnder 3
>>2802205https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_clay
>>2803349>There seems to be a template printer.cfg for almost every commercial printer.There are only 107 printer-specific configs in the Klipper repo, and 83 "generic" configs for different boards. Marlin has over 370 printer specific configs ready to go.>>servo locked probe>Sounds like something thats already available/adaptable from a bltouch style probe.No, not similar at all I'm afraid, nothing in common with a bltouch aside from the word "servo" in the description.>Maybe you assumed you need to read the code when what you actually should have done is look at printer.cfgs and their docs?I appreciate that, but no, that's not the case at all. >>2803384>Do even things like strain gauge get recognized without too much hassle these days?I'm not sure what you mean by that. Marlin has native support for piezo probing, as used by the Creality CR-6. I haven't seen it used in the way some newer stuff does, most notably some of Bambu's offerings and their clones, where there are sensors beneath the bed. I know Klipper folks have been discussing and working on this for the past 2 years. I don't know the state of their efforts. Basic probing with piezo elements, using them like endstops, that's already very easily doable in Marlin and I feel safe to assume in Klipper as well.
none of you use resin?
>>2803474Sorry, what i meant to say was; aren't strain gauges always some form of special sauce because of their dependency on attached body's form or their load cell's form in general? I know a wheatstone bridge is a general solution to these, but even if so, aren't they usually located on the oem board as well?
>>2803500Plenty of us also have resin printers, sure. The prints cost significantly more than FDM prints, and even very expensive resins don't match the mechanical performance of comparatively cheap FDM materials. If you want a 3dpg focused on resin printing, that already exists over at Toys for Grown-ups: >>>/tg/3dpg
>>2803506I'm not quick to dismiss resins given the shit prints I've done
>>2803502What I've seen are dedicated ADCs intended for digital scales paired with another microcontroller, together the function like an endstop. Very simple and easy to use in either Marlin or Klipper, but only really good enough for normal bed probing/meshing. There are plenty of examples if you're comfortable with Arduino or other microcontrollers and soldering, though I don't know of off-the-shelf solutions.
>>2803512I do love how easy resin printing is, and the incredible quality you can get out of it with so little effort. I also love how fucking fast it is now that even the cheapest ones have monochrome LCDs. With the right resins, plenty of smaller resin printers can push well past 100mm/h at 50micron layers, that shit is stunning. The part I don't like is that to match the mechanical performance of FDM printed ABS, you need very high performance resins. Loctite IND406 for example very nearly matches ABS in the usual stuff you expect to see on a datasheet. ABS Filament costs around 1.26-2.1cents per CC, whereas Loctite IND406 is 25.3 cents per CC, turning a 20-30cent Benchy into a $3.92 Benchy.
>>2803517That's what i meant, as in where do i even put the strain gauge wires onto a regular off the shelf controller board. Sure it can be done, but i generally see custom/-ized electronics as a rather big hurdle for anything.>only really good enough for normal bed probing/meshingWhat "non normal" bed probing/meshing are you referring to?
it's situations like this I am glad I got a 3D printer. Dryer holder would've cost me at least 10$ minimum
>>2803530would you even prefer resin over FDM? what are you printing exactly and what resin printer are you using? asking because I've never used resin printers but I like the idea of owning one in the future
>>2803591Some people want to go beyond and use strain gauges to do things like measure and compensate for deflection of the hotend while extruding, continuously compensate for warp in the bed that comes with temperature changes, or detect unusual loads at the hotend that could correspond to printing errors, like feeling a curled up corner and avoiding it rather than catching on it and ripping the print off the bed.
>>2803593Really that cost $10?Why not print it and sell it then...
>>2802508Are you talking about plastic rivits? Often used in auto.Your exact design wouldn't do anything without the rim on top though.
>>2803610not the one in particular I made but if you buy one from your regular (online) store.
>>2803474Anyhting that is used as a sensor still needs a small amount of circuitry to convert its tiny, often noisy signal into a high or low. So basically anything (that has its own circuit) works as a sensor. Piezo, strain, microswitch, hall-effect, ludicrous 4wire sevo-retracted rods, whatever.
>>2803333Because you can print it on printer paper, glue to the side of whatever fucking scrap plastic you have like an old garbage can, and just cut it out, without any internal stresses or warping or 2 hour print time.
>>2803235>>2803260Obviously you're paying the artisan tax on this one, but what would you be willing to pay for a regular version? I'd probably follow till 120€, VAT and shipping included.>8 TMC2209sWhat do you need eight drivers for in current year?
>>2803688>What do you need eight drivers for in current year?A: Filament swapping could use extra stepper motors in an AMS-like device, though this could also be offloaded to stepper drivers inside the AMS if you wanted something more modular.B: Independant Z steppers for auto-levelling definitely use extra steppers in modern printers, which also has the potential to make non-planar printing more viable.C: Some core-XY printers have XY steppers at all four corners, these can usually be run by the same two drivers that a core-XY would normally use, at least until you push your acceleration high enough such that driver overheating is an issue. Same for crossed-gantry printers.D: Tool-changers where seperate extruder motors are on each tool head, typically this is mutually exclusive with respect to an AMS.I could easily see you needing like 12 drivers for a fully specced out printer:>4 Z>4 XY>4 extruders on swappable hot-ends, or one direct extruder and three bowdens in an AMS
Found some time to finally ditch the Pi. Was surprisingly easy, only took a few hours to figure out and setup.
>>2803777Why not put into a container like everyone else?
>>2803730>4 extrudersNah. Those are all on can boards theses days, especially on multi toolhead systems.
>>2803781Never tried it. How would that be better?
>>2803782>Those are all on can boards theses dayswhy though, isn't that just more expensive than having all the drivers in the same place (on the main board or on directly addressed daughter boards)? i guess you save on gpios for the mcu, but you could also just use a multiplexer IC to choose which of the four stepper drivers is activated
>>2803785yeah really, i want to know tooi always got the feeling it was because windows users need to docker themselves to the hilt, but linux users.... ehhhhhI'm probably out of date though, the only vm i can tolerate is qemu, and even python environments piss me off.Great if you need to sandbox stuff, fucking obnoxious if you don't.*cough* FUCKING SNAPS *cough*
my company is buying a 3D printer and they want me to pick it out. budget is allegedly $2000-$7000. priority is dimension tolerance, preferably within 0.5mm or better. large stage/printing area/whatever you call it is preferable but not critical.any recs?
>>2803883nvm i think im in the wrong place.
>>2803887Very much so. Just know that there is no printer <$10,000 that's significantly better in any way than a $1000 printer. The industry is oversaturated, and commercial printers have become a joke, every review of a $5k-$10k printer is just an endless stream of mockery about how it's almost as good as a $600-$1000 printer.
>>2803883I’m autistic, but I think you’d be better off sufficiently speccing out a ratrig or voron and spending the rest on specialist man-hours for tinkering with the thing. You could go for something more plug-and-play like a bambu or whatever, but something is gonna go wrong eventually, or maybe you’ll want to upgrade it, in which case you’ll want a specialist on-hand anyhow. There is nothing truly plug-and-play for commercial use levels (especially when using engineering grade filament) in that price bracket.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49TG0JqyiMQ
Is this a meme that I should only buy a diy 3d printer kit?
>>2804059not a funny meme, the thing is all the current year printers you would look into will cause a fight if you recommend them.bambu X1prusa mk3ender 3 or k1all make ok printers depending on your price range, and most of them will arrive ready to print with maybe 2-3 bolts to attach.now watch as someone claims im a shill for including one of those 3 popular choices.
>>2804061shill
>>2803790Far less wiring.>>2803785>>2803833Gapped from your system and easier maintenance.>>2804061I chuckled. Thanks.
>>2804061You’re a shill for NOT including the SV08, you can’t win at all
>>2804067But sovol suplies free enclosure with printers. Atleast with sv07.Nice printer for 209$
>>2802205Buy a certain kind of powder (can't remember which elements are in, something strong) and... microwave it.I'm not joking, there are a lot of guides for doing the entire smelting process through microwaving, though obviously a kiln/furnace will probably be more reliable for later steps.
Noob here, using a (VERY) cheap printer for the first few timesI've noticed a couple of prints with thin horizontal top sections print quite badly along the top, could I mitigate this by altering the 'top layer' parameter or does that only affect the literal final top layers of the print (e.g. a short section would get ignored if there's a taller part)?
>>2804119post a pic, its probably just your layer height, or poor supports, or who knows what else.
All I want is to be left alone.
>>2804162Unpopular opinion, but i think that's fine. We've got enough niggers with guns already, dont need more niggers with ghetto guns on top. And i don't mean only black ones.
>>2804170>Buy 3d printer>get swatted
>>2804170>It's ok for me to be surveiled because of niggers.I'm starting to see why government and judges love their little pets. They'll get probation for a Glock with a switch, you'll get ten years +$250,000 for printing the wrong file.
>>2804171>>2804175Niggers detected.
>>2804119Post g code.Upload it cor catbox.
>>2804184>>2804147To be brutally honest the overall quality is trash lmao, I'm fine with mushy results but this is for the Dummy 13 thing so it needs ball joints that are... well, balls. Some of this could be solved by just printing it all larger but I'd prefer to know everything else I'm doing wrong first.Main concern for now is those two in centre frame - they're supposed to have flat walls instead of those three flimsy lines, and now I look underneath there's a couple of what were presumably the first passes by the printer that have hung down before hardening. Might be a temperature issue? I dunno, I've had this thing less than a week.https://litter.catbox.moe/38hp4k.gcode
>>2804217what the fuck. It looks like you're printing WAY too hot.
>>2804224Hmm. Spool of PLA is labelled at printing temp 205C upwards and the gcode's set to 210C, but then again I have no feedback from the printer for what the nozzle's actually getting to (and it takes hours to finish prints so might be overheating over time?)
>>2804217I'm in mobile so I can't do much with the gcode until later tonight.Start with the simple things:A simple bed level.Have you calibrated your extruder e-steps?Are the printers fans running? There should be two: one that cools the hot end, another that cools the plastic coming out of the nozzle.Are you using the white pla that comes with creality printers as a sample? Thats a known garbage filament.
>>2802163It werks.>TFW $50 to save 250 grams of abs.
>>2804229I think you misunderstand the gravity of the (VERY) in my first post
>>2804238>>2804229Ah actually one thing I did adress from those: I'm not using the given filament right now, got a spool since the one given is very small (Elegoo, if that means anything)
>>2804240A lot of us here started off with printers that wouldn't hold a candle to current $50 ali express printers.Bed level, make sure your slicer and e-steps are set up correctly. Your printers should have a way to change that.
>>2804240>>2804243Also, as much as I hate it, print the reddit boat. It really does work as a benchmark.
>>2804217>https://litter.catbox.moe/38hp4k.gcodewhere is the fucking file
>>2804162will they monitor when I buy my bigtreetech and nema motors from aliexpress to build myself a printer though? do they look in my shopping cart and see that I bought the acetone in the matches in the same store like in breaking bad?>>2804217if you changed anything from the standard settings like flow or temperature reset that. this looks way overextruded. check if the printing profile is>for the right material (PLA, ABS, Petg)>for the right size nozzle (most printers ship with 0,4mm)>at standard layer height (like 0,2 or 0,24) then show us a benchy idk what you're even trying to print here. the model should be on the sd that came with the printer
>>2804233I used to be on the quest for a decent filament joiner, but after seeing all of the fail I now just wait for that springy sound of the filament jagging the spool and hit pause, replace the filament, and resume.So I ask: why?Do you actually need unattended transfer from one spool to the next? or are you just following the same naive pattern of gear-acquisition-driven desire as the rest of us did?>>2804238Stop being so self-depricating of your printer you emo fag. This isnt deaditt and we dont need your caveat emptor block before and after every simpering sentence you write. Looking at the prints: the problem is the human failing to do basic calibration/setup, and not the printer as such.https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/https://3dprinterly.com/7-most-common-problems-with-a-3d-printer-how-to-fix/https://www.3dsourced.com/rigid-ink/ultimate-3d-printing-troubleshooting-guide/
>>2804217ok anon, heres some follow up questions, >what machine>what slicer>what filamentand post a screenshot of your settings, and maybe the actual printer and the bench its on.it looks like you're over extruding in some places, under extruding in others, you have heinous layer lines, either poor cooling or too aggressive cooling, cant tell without settings and a general idea of whats going on in the environment its in.if its on a super wobbly table, or the belts are loose.printing a benchy is probably a good idea, print it full size if you can, makes benchmarking easier.also, stop blaming the printer, anything made post 2016 that isn't entirely made from plywood and bent paperclips has no excuses to print poorly in current year.i managed to make a monoprice select mini v1 print out every part for a voron 2.4 with just a little calibrating and a few modifications.
>>2804217>raftwhy?>tinymake sure your units are correct>muh lame printorsmall printers like that are designed to get excellent results on small prints.>lolare you even printing with the nozzle size your config specifies?
>>2804162Midwit take, but can’t he just put serial numbers on them? Then the charge would be improper FFL loiscense maybe. Article doesn’t say if he was actually making and distributing or if he was under investigation for anything else. I wonder if I can still return mine and get off any extra lists.
>>2804238What's supposed to be the problem here? Mechanic looks well enough, a direct extruder.. At worst there's an 8bit board to complain about.
>>2804360Yesh he could but that wouldn't help with all the other guns and shit he had laying around.https://www.silive.com/news/2024/05/ghost-gun-raid-on-staten-island-nets-arsenal-of-firearms-500-rounds-of-ammo-authorities-say.html
>>2804360Not sure if this is the case in NY, but I heard that the serial number has to be on a metal part that's at least X percent the mass of the gun, or contiguous with an important part of the gun, or something like that. So making a legal 3D printed gun means having a big brick of iron in it somehow. Sure gets in the way of the right to be able to defend yourself from a would-be totalitarian government. The feds can literally take a wad of cash from your car and never have to reimburse you, without reasonable suspicion.Though I live in a noguns country so idk. If someone in my country wanted to make a firearm they'd also need to be able to make the ammo.I'd rather make a high-power handheld tea laser, or maybe some other sort of pulsed gas laser, with a massive mirror. Q switched, perhaps. If I get the instantaneous power high enough, it could be self-focusing.
>>2804410Don't worry. Only bolt action is fun. After that it's just dick measuring who can afford the most and biggest ammunition.
Is there a way to make adaptive printing speed on klipper according to overhang? I printed this hose adapter from petg yesterday outofthe box with sv07 (box guy from before) and quality is satisfying exept stringing. I changed printing speed to 50ms for last few layers but otherwise part was printed at 70ms max setting. 245/70’c fresh filamentTldr; is there automated way to make adaptive printing speed like adaptive lyers with klipper/cura?
>>2802285Slugcat
>>2804428you do that in slicer. something like overhang wall speed depending on your slicer. in cura it's uniform set at a specific angle, in orca you can set different speeds for degrees
>>2804428you probably just need support there is what I forgot to mention. you're trying to lay plastic on air
Always thought 3d printing just smelled bad. Found out my new printer doesen't smell at all with same filament. Went to check the internals of old printer and the silicone head protector has been completely liquified. What kind of cancer am I looking at?
>>2804428theres a real skill to being able to take the least useful photos possible and then presenting them at rotations that make it a mindfuck to figure out what you are looking at.But can everyone just stop being so skilled at that already? Please.
>>2804428dont confuse what you should be doing in the slicer with what klipper does.Klipper prints fast.Slicers do everything else.
>>2804456What? They're complaining about overhang on slopes. There's a picture of the problem on the slope visible on both pics
>>2800687I think KE is way better. I can reliably print PLA 0.2mm at 300mm/s now
>>2804450do you mean the silicone cover? if it decomposes it turns into smol silicium oxide particles, funny silicium VOCs (silane, siloxane) and among other things formaldehyde. Should be fine unless you breathed straight from the printer lol
>>2804519Yeah that. Of course something else could also be the source of the smell, but I think this speaks for itself
>>2804238i would bet that if you filled that thing with epoxy granite, while taking care of not filling the working parts, it will got way way better
>>2804540Doubt it.https://youtu.be/ikjOEaPY6Rk?t=384
>>2804597i am a mech guy, i saw the video back then and tough about that reinforcing it shoudlnt be difficult and probably fun to do. The electronics i dunno
AhahaahahahaahahahaEven printer loli is calling out Joseph on his lack of adaption and abhorrent pricing.
Printing PETG for the first time>higher print temp>slower print speed>higher bed temp>don't use PEI or if you do, use a glue stick >enclosure not necessary but recommendedanything else I'm missing?
>>2804739Powder coated PEI is fine.
>>2804739Powdered pei is fine. No need for enclosure at all. What you are missing is drying your filament, petg can be a bitch about that, it also should fix stringing if you encounter problems with that. Oh and use mild retraction.t. prints only petg and nothing else because I don't like how PLA feels
>>2804770>dryI'm printing just a few things for work and I've calculated out that I'll use up the entirety of these spools pretty much immediately so I'm not too worried about that, but good to know for the future
>>2804732are there more competitive printers that come with tool-changers?
>>2804777Sadly no, not really. And that's why xl is selling even with all the underlying issues it has.
>>2804777Define competitive. Blackbox is out there impressing people, but of course it doesn't have a big commercial backbone like Prusa.
>>2804777I just remembered that new ratrig has index mode, that should cover a lot of bases for people looking for good multi head printers. The lead time for it keeps rising though and there are no real reviews of it as of now. If it was already out when we were looking for multi head printer at work we would've gotten it instead of xl probably. Now we are stuck with that hunk of metal that's annoying to deal with.
>>2804832What's so annoying about it? After price and filament cripple it seems to work for everyone yet.
>>2804739>>don't use PEI or if you do, use a glue stickjust be prepared to use 80 or 90C for the bed if the print is bigger than about 10x10cmi dont know how fast you are printing, but i print petg at the same speed as plaboth tolerate being cranked to 200% speed reasonably well too, but i rarely do that, and it probably depends a lot on what you are printing and what quality you expect.
>>2804852that said: this is 220 and 70C, but note the skirti also havent cleaned this bed for a week or three... PEI is pretty good.
>>2804852I normally do 200-250mm/s with pla, seems to be my machine's balance between speed and not making the exterior distractingly inconsistent, but for these few parts I'm doing the appearance is going to matter so I figure I'd start at 50mm/s to play it safe and see how we go
Photogrammetry was mentioned a few weeks back. Not sure what happened to that, but I decided to re-get meshroom and toss some tests at it.Holy shit. It was probably decent before, but I either just didnt think it was processing (like i almost did this time too) or my PC wasnt up to the grunting required. But this time I'm impressed.Now it's got me thinking about the things I was trying to scan years ago, and what rigs i'm going to want to make for it to become a process i can do relatively easily.
>>2804855>200-250mm/s with plaoh lol, im a slowpoke thenmy i3 will move at 500mm/s no problems, but it sounds fugly on the Y axis, and I find any minor collisions at that speed too unnerving, so i have it limited to 300 till i put delrin bushings in the Y axis.But 60 is my typical 'fast' speed :) lolI really need to get my corexy franken-build going again...
>>2804843For one thing you are locked to Prusa slicer because nothing else supports multi head since Prusa apparently did toolchanging in some weird way. Out of the box it's annoyingly loud and has high resonances. After months of Prusa fucking around they finally released firmware update that helps it but there is one little problem, if you turn on phase stepping your crash detection has to be off. So after months of delay they released firmware that doesn't really work. Filament detection is finicky. You can forget about using multiple nozzle diameters in different heads. Octoprint doesn't really support it because Prusa is being stubborn so you are locked to Prusa connect and their cloud shit or you just use Prusa link that has basically no options for monitoring. Oh and the enclosure is releasing soon tm.
>>2804314>Do you actually need unattended transfer from one spool to the next? or are you just following the same naive pattern of gear-acquisition-driven desire as the rest of us did?I was decided to make filament splicing work reliably without any consumables and in under a minute. If I couldn't find a commercial solution, I would begin developing one as a project and potentially a kit to sell. The Vitsport clamp works, and while $50 seems like a lot it's not much considering all the other "splicers" I've purchased that have simply not worked or been incredibly fiddly to the point that the connections could just not be trusted.Is it a sensible thing? no. Even with my cf-pet rolls which are nearly $100/kg it would take nearly 6 tail ends spliced together to equal the cost of the tool.tl;dr just throw out your tail ends, they're not worth fussing over. Some filaments are cheap, others are too hygroscopic to be concerned with saving/storage of worthless lengths.
>>2804870Adding to this, differently colored filaments have slight variations with how they print, even within the same material from the same manufacturer. look at how differently black abs top layer printed with respect to the cyan/orange for which the profile was set (all filaments used here were inland basic bitch abs). it was slightly too cold for the speed it was running at and came out underextruded, while the green was overextruded.In general I've found lighter colors to print slightly cooler, though I haven't really done any testing. I've given up on white filaments.
>>2804371>paywall article>500 rounds of ammo found>NYGuns and ammo aren’t illegal, there’s got to be some other probably cause but it is NY and he probably thought he had a right to self defense. >>2804410Thanks for planting the laser seed fed. Back on the list now.
>>2804876He caught charges for printing and manufacturing "assault weapons" (ny has featureless rifle laws) and magazines above 10 rounds. It is unknown if he was manufacturing for personal use, which do not need serial numbers. It's still not ok to surveil everyone simply because they purchased filament.Meanwhile the Rochester mayor got caught with unregistered NFA items(glocks with switches, ar's with third hole) and large quantities of drugs, and it all just went away quietly.
Alright anons this just came in mail. I'll report more on it when I have time to actually assemble it so probably next week.The boxes seem good quality at least.
>>2804928top nep.Somebody explain linear rails to me. What's the point of them when loads in our applications are so low? That advantage do they bring to 3d printing over smooth rod and bearing?
>>2804853New heatsink?>>2804862Gotta say getting a Prusa without Prusa Slicer preference seems like a terrible proposition to begin with, but i'm not surprised about the firmware issues giving the state MK4 arrived in back then. The enclosure is releasing soon.>>2804932Accuracy and longevity on the first part. Easier to work with on the second.
>>2804945>Gotta say getting a Prusa without Prusa Slicer preference seems like a terrible proposition to begin with, but i'm not surprised about the firmware issues giving the state MK4 arrived in back then. >The enclosure is releasing soon.Mmm that's some nice beard-cope.
>>2804449I just found out this tree support thing. Need to fiddle with it and also found a way to combine prosesses in cura like in simplify3d. >>2804457I just thought that theres somekinda box that you can tick to make everything magic in klipper.. like firmware can read overhang and reduce speed in certain limits in advance, like pid kkorner thing.
>>2804947I think you're misreading. Never owned a Prusa, never will. We had two MK4 fresh after release in university and i witnessed the much praised load cell "working on every surface" not working for several months first hand.
>>2805030>load cell "working on every surface"what the fuck, all the bullshit they are doing instead of making the printers mechanically rigid. in prusas pricetag there is no excuse for it
>>2804732I wasn't paying attention that much but to me it sounded like she had quite a few good things to say about it
>>2804732I don't understand the price tag for something that can only do PLA and PETG. What companies are currently doing dual extruded heated chamber printers? Don't even have to be high speed, just functional.
/3dpg/ guys I got a question about some 3D modeling stuff. Figured asking here would be more productive than asking on /3/.I want to do a 3D modeling project where I need to commission someone for a custom 3D head, but I want to headswap that onto a body for posing and printing. Ideally I want to keep this as cheap as possible by using either ripped videogame assets or ones purchased off an asset store.I'll need to - Headswap- Pose- Put clothing on the model- Make it ready for printingWhat are the best tools for this job and the minimum things I'll need to learn in order to do this?
>>2805053Printer loli is usually quite positive about every machine. She never attacked business practices like this before.>>2805058You're looking for idex machines, or straight up build a blackbox.>>2805063Blender. Don't expect it to be quick nor easy.
>>2805058The price is entirely justified, just look at the expenses Prusa has to deal with.
>>2805046Pretty much. We did something similar to pic rel once the firmware update dropped and went "What now?" straight after. Was a good excuse to drink and have a good evening though, so guess it was good for something.
>>2805071>Blender. Don't expect it to be quick nor easy.Fuuuck.Thanks though, Anon.
Im cleaning my extruder after a big clog from a failed print and this thing came out of it when i unscrewed it from the hotend. Anyone know what it is? Feels like overheated shrink tubing or something. None of the replacement extruders ive ordered came with something like this.
>>2804870>tl;dr just throw out your tail endsrecently ive been keeping one or two spools with a few meters left on them, previously i would have ditched them, but weighing them and knowing how exactly much the spool weighs... and the trivial nature of my pause/filament replace now that i have a direct extruder... makes it really easy.I often find myself printing very small objects as a test, which i may need to do iteratively a dozen times or more (depends on my ocd-tism that day), so finishing a roll down to the last 30cm or so is pretty common now.I bag any spool thats not in use anyway, so I havent seen any need to dehydrate any of the shorts either.Economy intensifies.>>2805013>box that you can tick to make everything magic in klipper.No. Klipper pretty much just drives the hardware, theres tweaks it can do but mostly its all about absorbing the load from the printers cpu, and maximizing data transfer between printer/SBC (pi/pc) so prints are fast and stutterless.Klipper does have some cool stuff that is similar to the stuff you want, but it's really the *slicer software* that does the things you are imagining.>>2805117lol, looks like a length of filament.But could also be a PTFE insert. They melt at ~260C... neurotoxic gasses are emitted and your nozzle blocks.Get a nozzle that doesnt have PTFE(teflon) inserts and forget about it.
>>2805124>Economy intensifies.Writes all that and then forgets to state the pointSo now that I can just reload filaments on demand, and I'm always here to do it anyway, my quest for splicing tools has ended. I'm sure others still seek that particular grail though, so I see how its a good potential project. But I also suspect a lot of us are simply over it entirely.
>>2805124If an extruder comes with a teflon insert i guess it's safe to assume it wont work properly without the teflon insert? Or could it be safe to just clean and reuse it without the insert?
>>2805136It’s the heatbreak that has the PTFE tube in it. You can swap heatbreaks in some hot ends without touching the extruder.
>>2805136You could just remove it and start printing, but there will be a section of molten filament in your nozzle that is wider than the filament path usually is (1.75mm), so you will never be able to do a cold pull again... no great loss.As a temporary measure, sure, try just using it with no insert. Of course it may still be blocked at the actual nozzle aperture anyway.>>2805143>It’s the heatbreak that has the PTFEsometimes it is in the nozzle/heater section. Depends on the setup.
>>2805145ie:https://yandex.com/images/search?from=tabbar&text=3d%20print%20teflon%20nozzle%20types
Bought flexi TPU and have no magically googled it and figured out it needs a direct drive extruder and not the regular Bowden drive. Is it worth the hassle? The DD is like $50
>>2805149direct drive is far superior to bowden.do it fgt Even if only for the reduction of hassle with managing bowden, get direct drive for the tpu aspect. You wont regret it.
>>2805143In this picture, i assume the blue tube is the ptfe for the heatbreak, then ive got the hotend, the black tube that fell out of the extruder, and the extruder itself in that order. The black tube is the one i was referring to, i could be wrong but i dont think it was part of the heatbreak.>>2805145I never seem to have problems fixed by cold pulls anyway, it's always smooth sailing or printhead surgery nothing in between. Now im just wondering how much of the heatbreak i need to take apart, seems like pla has oozed into every nook and cranny
>>2805153If the thermistor and heater cartridge are gooped-in just leave them alone, its too easy to damage glass bulb thermistors, and the extra contact with the block wont impair either thermistor or heater.But you should almost always fully disassemble the path of the filament.... the heatbreak above the block, the block, and the nozzle... separate and reassemble.I do this while its attached and hot (detachable hotend quick release ftw) , its a lot harder when its cold.
>>2805124>I often find myself printing very small objectsI don't even bother changing out the filament for very small objects. I run my filaments from a dryer,/drybox so changing out filaments is a royal pain.
>>2805157I scraped out some goop around the thermistors but havent disassembled them at all, i hope that means there's no chance i poked the glass or something. I've just been using a heat gun to loosen up the stuff while i clean it off
>>2805153blue is 'capricorn' ptfe/teflon tube, yes.it may penetrate the heatbreak (silver tube its inside) until a flange inside the heatbreak stops it from touching the nozzle, or it may be free to go all the way through to press against the nozzle's butt. Whatever.Your nozzle: can you measure it internal diameter?If its close to 1.75mm - ie: 2mm, then chances are that black rod is just filament, and the blockage is in the nozzle-actual (at the tip)If it measures closer to 3 or 4mm then it would have had a short ptfe (probably the white kind, but maybe not) inside the nozzle extending to be flush with its butt.What diameter filament were you using?What color?Can you poke a needle into the front of the nozzle? (while its hot)i find it useful to poke an accupuncture needle in from the front (while hot) and then remove the nozzle, reinsert it backward (can do this with bambu nozzles) and then see what drips out when its hot again.Just poking the obstruction free of the nozzle isnt enough, you usually need to physically remove it too... not always though. And you almost never get to see what it actually was.If the nozzle flows normall, nobody cares what the obstruction was and reassembly happens.
>>2805160>i poked the glass or somethingThey are hard and extremely difficult to break, but that doesnt mean you cant. So goop on them is largely irrelevant, just focus on unblocking the nozzle.
and btw, cleaning the heater block etc is essentially pointless, and doing it while the filament on it its cold is more likely to do damage, even if only cosmetic damage.The only thing you really need to be 'clean' is the threads inside the block, and even then they will never be really clean, so the best you can hope for is to remove any big goops inside the block's threads and then reassemble it while its hot, so any remaining goop inside becomes part of the seal.BTW: A brass brush and a hot hotend makes it really easy to clean all of the superfluous shizz that you are probably fixating on right now.
TinkerCHADS riseupSerious note is there anything you can do on onshape that makes it worth switching over from tinkerCAD
>>2805161>>2805162>>28051651.75mm filament, i dont have my calipers but a 5/64inch allen wrench is too big too fit into it and thats just under 2mm so i assume it must be 2mm, i first thought it was backed up filament but it's hollow and i can squeeze/crease it instead of breaking it so now i dont think so.Good to know the ooze around where things connect isnt that big a problem though, i was worried about that
>>2805171>i assume it must be 2mmhmm, so then its a ?hollow? sleeve of unknown origin..Can you cut it and find out if its hollow or if the inside surfaced/contents sheds any light on wtf it is?Sounds like its a casing of goop that was once stuck to the walls of the melt area, and has come off in one chunk.Are you printing filament of the same color?Repeat-asking the questions you dont answer is annoying me a bit too btw.Just clean and reassemble it. Assuming you know how to seat the nozzle against the heatbreak you should be running again.
>>2805153wait... are you the same person who is printing TPU?TPU can be squeezed/creased without breaking....if it looks, squeezes and creases like filament, its probably filament.
>>2805158>changing out filaments is a royal pain.i was a bowden sufferernow a direct enjoyerI cant automatically print multiple kilos of filament without user intervention, but do *love* how easy it is to switch filament though. DD ftw.I might look into a spring-based tension spool flipped to push... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3338467...and a Y-junction for the ptfe tube i use to guide the filament from the spool to the extruder/hotend, and see if some kind of setup like that would effectively automatically start feeding one spool after the other gets finished.
What printer with foss software and firmware that is not Prusa do you recommend >?
>>2805191Nope im using pla>>2805188Most of it is hollow, but i just tried cutting a few places and it actually seems solid up to a few mm from the tip, and ya i was printing in black.>Assuming you know how to seat the nozzle against the heatbreakWell i thought i did but now i feel like im missing something. I didn't remove the heat break from the heat block so it's still in place, i assume i just tighten the extruder back into the block real good right?
>>2805166Freecad got a lot better as well. Devs did and had to up their game after realthunder and the community blasted their asses.>>2805209Maybe start with "I wanna print X". For bedslingers there's a wide margin, for enclosed printers you got.. Voron.
>>2804856>not using gaussian blobs>>2804876we were never off the list
>>2805212- back off the heatbreak a few millimeters (unscrew it a bit)- screw the nozzle in till it bottoms out, then back it out a tiny amount, 0.1-0.5mm ish- then screw in the heatbreak, light-tight- then screw in the nozzle, medium to hard tight...dont strip any threads when you do the last bit, but you do want it tightWhen the hotend heats everything expands, this *should* cause the compression between heatbreak and nozzle butt to increase, but maybe the heatblock will have different ideas, so you may discover something leaks, if so tighten it again, you should still have a very small amount of space to screw the nozzle in further. If not start again by backing the heatbreak out etc.
>>2805229I just loaded the images and hit goeverything is default.>>2805212>Most of it is hollowits just a husk of filament then, with any luck your obscruction is embedded in it somewhere and you can just reassemble and try again.Apparenly the only ptfe tube you have is way back in the heatsink and heatbreak, so theres less chance you will cook it back there.I still prefer to avoid ptfe anywhere beyond the heatsinks top end if i need t print anywhere near 240-250C. Non ptfe-insert nozzles have never seemed any different to ptfe nozzles to me.
>>2805233btw the rustish looking stuff on the thread near the tip of your nozzle is basically deep-fried filament residue, and can cause clogs, so brass brush ftw.The same crud, and various intermediary formns of filament slag can be found between the heatbreak and the nozzle: inside the heatblock.The only simple way to get that out is by screwing a sacrificial or otherwise 'dirty duty only' heatbreak into it. In and out a few times. Wiping the debris each time. Or better yet an actual bolt of the right diameter, so you can grip it more easily and maybe even do it with a drill.Just remember that aluminium threads are soft like butter when you start screwing hardened steel into them with powertools, so be gentle senpai.
>forgot to add overhang sacrificial layers to four holes>didn't notice until 150 grams into the printFUCK ME
>>2805238>150gsounds like you buy filament by the spoolWhen you accept that there is no escape from 3d printing you will start buying it in hefty batches. The pain of a few hundred wasted grams; diminishes. My next/current project is to design an orthotic. Commercial models usually cost in the order of $1000... per limb.The last half a dozen I've printed were trash about 5 minutes after they finished printing.PLA s ok for sizing, but you cant put weight on it.PETG is ok for actual use testing, but only barely.So yeah, at ~150g for the minimal tests ive been doing so far, it adds up. But filament is a consumable. You just have to remember that if you want to design anything of any sort of scale above miniature.
why is realthunder branch not merged with the main freecad source? it can still install the same addons, right?
>>2805241I need polycarbonate for cheap, lots of it
>>2805238have you noticed that despite setting sacrificial layer holes, orca will still fill them with support?Doesn't that seem like an oversight, or someone being overzealous?
>>2805247>orcasliceryou got a lotta faith in me man, and I'm too lazy for slicer supports
>>2805250>lazy for slicer supportstoo lazy for automated support? saywhatnow?I like to put my sacrificial layer on the bools i use to cut bolt holes. But it's nice when orca can also do it for the ones i overlook.But putting support inside a 3mm bolt hole to support somehting that doesnt even need ot bridge perfectly... thats just dumb. I bet they'll ignore me if i open an issue on it though.
>>2805166It helps that you can do actual cad and don't have to approximate what you're looking for with adding and subtracting shapes.For anything more complicated it's a lot less hassle and faster once you understand it
>>2805244>why is realthunder branch not merged with the main freecad source?Guy is a prime example for weaponized autism. Most of his code is neither commented, nor commonly formatted or particular readable, so before the community backlash they expected him to rewrite his code for them, what he ignored and just pushed more features instead, further increasing the code gap.>it can still install the same addons, right?Didn't have one break one me yet, but my usage of addons heavily reduced over the past two years. So take my word with a grain of salt.
>>2805288Freecad itself isn't well commented. An outsider can't fix it. They pretend to not understand. Every improvement is accompanied by regressions on other fronts. Their real goal is humiliation rituals:>No you posted in the wrong form and no I'm not moving it for you.>No you have to discuss it here first before opening a bug. >No you have to start a new thread.>You have to paste the full version string from the window with the button that doesn't actually copy it to an x11 selection>I can't reproduce this.It seems like realthunder got to the next level.
>>2805296Tfw it was Gnome all along.
>>2805296well to be honest, while i dunno about the development, the program itself is improving a ton lately
>>2805193How on earth do you believe bowden vs direct drive makes any amount of difference when it comes to changing out filament for an enclosed printer?
>>2805477Are you female or something?It's not always about you.1) I'm not talking about an enclosed printer.2) I'm talking about my experience with bowden vs direct.3) It's much less hassle.
>>2805516nta, but >3) It's much less hassleHow?With Bowden i opened the spring hatch and pushed filament through the tube. Now i push filament through the tube till the motor grabs it. Besides dumping on an AMS/MMU, i don't really see room for much improvement.
I just rescued a prusa from work and have upgraded it with a revo. Now that I have two printers, what are some things I should consider manufacturing as projects?
>>2805288>>2805296>>2805305i hope ondsel will be a catalyst to freecad improvement in all fronts, but especially user experience
>>2805654>1) I'm not talking about an enclosed printer.>2) I'm talking about my experience with bowden vs direct.>3) It's much less hassle.4) I'm also not talking about automated filament feeders...JUST bowden vs direct
>gf sends me picture of a sketch of something a coworker of hers made, she's asking if I can print something like this, it's "something for a lawnmower">ask what it's called>"dunno, something for a break">say that I can try to sketch something as soon as I get the sketch, so I can take measurements (there are none on the sketch except for one space) and make a prototype before I go on and print with more durable materials.>ask her what it's used for, if it needs to be heat resistent, if it has to withstand mechanical wear or if it just sits somewhere as a sort of spacer>gf tells me to forget about it, I'm being too complicated>mfw
>>2805664>doesn't answer the questionGreat job. >>2805661For the time being it'll probably do very little while Collette is merely changing the default interface. If you like it, check out the licenses. They are a lot more forgiving than Onshape, especially if you don't care about the collaboration tools.
I bought some Polyterra Marble PLA and managed to tune my printer to print a benchy without it falling apart. Temperature is 225/60, but I'm thinking maybe the surface bed is a bit too hot. What do you think? I'm using a Elegoo N4 with a 0.6 stainless steel nozzle. Currently have the line width set to 0.66 mm to account for the larger nozzle (instead of the default of 0.62)
>>2805688>opeywopey teh spwing hatch and stushed deh filyment tru teh tubeywoobeyJust because you have a modern printer where everything comes included and is workable by chimpanzees doesnt mean we all do.Some of us are from a time when you had to change nozzles with our teeth, and lubricating the bed with your tongue was normal.Bowden is so 20th century, and it can eat shit.All hail glorious direct drive.
>>2805699Showing from the side. There's some stringing almost near the top but have no idea what could've caused it.
>>280569960 is finei use 60 bed for pla always... ALWAYS225 is pretty roasty though, if anyhting pla likes it a bit cooler than the recommended tempsI generally print light grey pla at 190Calso; its your overhangs that are sucking... they shouldnt be though. a 0.6 nozzle can do some mean slopes if your layers are relatively thin.also: you clearly have no idea what line width is for, so leave it at default... or 0.6>stingingbecasue you are printing it hot
>>2805699Nozzle too hot and your bed a bit eager. I'd set 195 / 50 and see where it goes.
>>2805699re line width:1) https://the3dprinterbee.com/3d-printer-line-extrusion-width/and the image im posting2) an orca feature, but also relevant to understanding why line width isnt always the same as nozzle widthpersonally i specify my lines to be the same as nozzle diameter, always... and *do* use precise wallhttps://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/wiki/Precise-wall
>>2805702>>2805703I also thought it was too hot, but I tried 200 which is what I use for regular PLA and got pretty bad layer delamination, and worked my way up until 225 (220 print was too brittle and snapped at around 90% completion). That's also is why I changed line width in the first place since I saw it could be because each layer wasn't "squishing" into the previous. Will try setting it back to default and reduce the layer width with a lower temp.
>>2805710the layers automatically join each other horizontally, regardless of what you set for layer width, so just leave defaults.>pretty bad layer delaminationwhaaaaaa?Are you sure you have nozzle you think you have in there?Nozzle blockage maybe?You sure its even PLA?What is your layer HEIGHT/THICKNESS set to?Why did the model snap? did the nozzle collide with somehting?Maybe you have a crazy cold fan or somehtng freezing the layers before they can even bond... surely not.Nothing you say is happening really makes any sense. Things dont normally fail that hard unless you have an actual problem, usually silly overlooked thing you forgot to set, or a blockage or temperature failure of some kind.
>>2804739Be aware that you may have to go way hotter than you think you should. I swear some PETG is non-newtonian below 260 C because I've had otherwise unexplainable jams.
>>2805718>>2805710One of his problems is using Neptune 4, they need quite a bit of handholding to get them to print right. My 2 cents here are:Overhangs look shit because he is printing too hot but also not getting enough part cooling.Stringing as other anons said is because too hot, could try retraction too but that shouldn't really be needed for PLA.A print snapping is very odd though that shouldn't really happen unless he is using some weird settings.For a fix, use orca instead of default cura they give, turn down flow rate a bit and try printing temp tower from around 190c. If you can print tower w/o it falling over pick the temp that looks the best and do flow calib. Both are built in orca tests. After that print beachy. If the tower falls over when it's printing turn down flow rate more and/or calibrate first layer.
>>2805718Nozzle is fine. It is PLA but it has some additives and nylon particles to give it that marbling effect. I've had no issues printing regular PLA. Layer height was the default which is 0.3mm.Not sure about the snapping. Here's the model and it seems like layers didn't bond properly, but that doesn't really explain the snap.>>2805761I tries Orca initially but had the same issue. I'm using Cura 5.7.1 not the default they give and its worked so far. Its only with this filament where I'm seeing it fail this hard.
>>2805668anon you're supposed to read her mind, you could do that if you really loved her
I've been wanting to bring my old migbot back to life. I was going through some moving boxes and found it along with most components. No shortage of projects and can't image a greater waste of time doing something so meaningless.>>2805664fucking retard.
>>2805668I've had the same thing happen to me but for sewing machines/heat press shirt things.They give me a part number and everything. Which is nice, but why not just buy the part?>It's ok anon, just design this tiny beveled gear with weird geometry and print it out in nylon. >what do you mean $50!? How expensive can plastic and electricity be!? I can buy the thing for $15!Hopefully this thing lives up to the hype when it comes to acquiring reference geometry, if it ever shows up.
>>2805783a layer that fails is either an extrusion issue, like a an intermittent filament flow issue, particles in the filament could cause this, or your filament path is being constricted somewhere.... spool not turning when it needed to.... bowden tube bent into tight radiuses.... bit of grit in a bowden tube...etc.or your stepper is overheating and layer shifting... or your hotend is tilting becasue its not attached properly.It's quite unlikely the model would break becasue one layer of filament didnt bond to the one under it unless one of the above, or your slicer sliced it with a full retard chunk missing. i often see this when exporting models from blender, boolean or mirror operations will flip the wrong triangle and orce will lose its shit for a few layers, until i fix the model and ouptut a new stl.
>>2805915>misinterpreted what they said in the first place.>still mad
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBKsBhFbQNkthe future
> switching from boden to DD> manage to snap the M5 x 30 fastener on the guide wheel changing it> have tens of other M5s, but no x30 or x35> the x40 hits the side of the rig and the x25 is too smallA 20 minute job has now turned into a +45 round trip to find a single fastener. A fuck you to whichever tard it was here that convinced me 3d printing was a good hobby
>>2806022It's traditional to have at least 10Kg of misc fasteners 2mm to 6mm by the end of your first year as a 3DPrinterMaster.Also; a dremelto cut the x40 with
>>2806004entredastingbut the one some fags designed numerous years ago where the hotend does all of the contortions is probably a better design
>>2805953There's like four different people confused by the notion that direct drive is somehow an easier change than bowden in any measurable capacity.
>>2806022How fucking hard we you wrenching on the damn thing that you snapped an M5?
>>2806098no there aren't Patricia
>>2806098No, you're alone. Direct Drive setups are almost always easier to work with, bowden is fucking garbage and worse in every way, which is why any half-decent modern printer is Direct Drive with very few exceptions. If you had any experience with 3D printing I've no doubt you'd understand, but nobody can "explain" experience into your head. I always convert bowden to direct drive to save on hassles and headaches, because direct drive is just so much easier to load and service while delivering far better print quality, there's really no excuse for bowden tubes anymore.
>>2805166But anon you can import SVGs in onshape.
>>2806099Honestly, not that hard. I went looking for the what the top of the fastener was called (button head) and a rake of other Ender 3 users were searching for the same one. Cheap chink fasteners. >>2806048Derp, never thought about using the dremel. Amateur hour.
Rate my electroplating rig, there are some 3d printed parts coated in grounding spray paint to make it conductive wrapped in copper wire
>>2806372>dremeldoing so does mess up the thread, and you may need to bevel the cut face perimeter a bit for it to be easy to screw into anything, but its an intermediary solution.>>2806397>batteries>parallel resistorswait, whats the power supply?also what are the parts intended for?
>>2806399The batteries in a series should give me 6 volts. The 8- 10 ohm resistors in parallel should reduce the current to 1.2 amps which is adequate for the parts which are probably 4.6 square inches of surface area. I have yet to wire and pour the acid in
>>2806400entredastingi didnt even consider the current limiting partis there some tasty technical reference for figuring out such arcane knowledge... i just had an order of conductive pla arrive today.
>>2806400also, assuming your target objects are just sitting loose inside those coils as a means of conduction: i wonder if a small vibrator module to make them jiggle a little would improve homogeny of the plating?
>>2806404CA2929515A1 says superimposed AC is supposed to help.
>>2806431to be clear: i know OF electroplating, but havent yet looked into the details of it. The conductive PLA was just a curiosity purchase, I hadn;t previously considered electroplating it.>immediately toggles wizard-level arcana>CA2929515A1i really wonder how people come up with some of these ideas other than just trying it and seeing what happens
>>2806401>is there some tasty technical referencealso; i really meant for determining the required current etc
why do resin printers and slicers not have a feature where internal structure gets longer exposure than outer skin? it's just a screen with uv backlight, it should be able to print animated fucking gifs. you don't care about dimensional accuracy inside the part.
>>2806400>1.2A>from AA batteriesWhy not just use a DC power brick? they're like $5 at a thrift store>>2806404Instead of vibration, I think a pump to move the fluid and prevent any dead zones from getting depleted would be more important. Though vibration, or even putting an ultrasonic transducer on the vessel, might change the surface finish significantly.>>2806461Electroplating and other electrochem really is wizard shit. There's all sorts of proprietary additions they add to their tanks to change the plating characteristics. Normally electric fields concentrate charges near pointy surfaces, but that can be modulated with additions to the solution. So can dendrite growth. Or roughness. Or how well the solution plates inside small holes. All I know of is there's something called a "leavener", and they use some types of (non-ionic?) surfactants. I bet complexing agents like thiourea and ammonia change it too. Never seen a hobbyist experiment with these though.>>2806504Maybe it causes warping? See if UVtools has it as an option, if not maybe request it as a feature. The dev is active and listens to requests.
I am an open-source extremist. I am also NOT interested in tinkering with 3D printers as a hobby. I'm looking with interest at Voron printers.If I build one, my fear is that I will be monkeying with it forever. I'm prepared to do some extensive initial set-up, but after that I don't want to be constantly tuning and optimizing.If Voron isn't the way, is there another open-source project that I should be looking into?
>>2806692>I am an open-source extremistPost fedora
>>2806692>I am also NOT interested in tinkering with 3D printers as a hobby.>I'm looking with interest at Voron printers.You don't want a Voron. They exist for tinkerers to tinker with, they are not off-the-shelf, easy to use, beginner friendly, you WILL be monkeying with it forever because that's basically what they're intended for. It's the opposite of what you say you want. If you're not interested in 3D printing as a hobby, buy a Bambu printer. If opensauce is a requirement then buy a Prusa, they're insanely overpriced and their stance on opensource has faltered significantly, but they still produce perfectly good printers for ludicrous prices.
>>2806696Thank you. I already own a Prusa Mini that I bought used (because you're right, they are overpriced), but I seem to be running into its limitations sooner than I'd expected.Oh well.
>>2806698The Mini is a really, really unimpressive printer. It's beat out by most $150 offerings. As a Prusa product, it was disappointing to begin with (which is on-brand for them), a half-assed attempt at a "small" printer that launched at twice the price of its competition.
>>2806692Sovol SV08 is a pre-made voron, that good enough for you?
>>2806692>much pride, very abolutes, so statementsSuck it up toughguy. You either buy a walled garden machine that you pay through the nose for, or you buy something that you need to work on from time to time. The work will vary from machine to machine, but even the out-of-the-box solutions will require some maintenance sooner or later.I bought a sheet metal framed printer thinking this would stop be from meddling with its components. It didnt, but it did limit what i could alter and redesign. I now have a setup thats only a bit janky, and it works, so I'm officially over the impulsive redesigning/improving of stuff for it....now i design shit thats not for the printer....but the coreXY i started designing and building years ago still calls to me in the dead of night.This is basically the best situation you can hope for at this point in printer technology.Or, y'know: stay the fuck away from an inherently DIY hobby with that DIY-hostile approach.
>>2800693what the actual fuck
>>2803311PET and PETG are 2 completely DIFFERENT thingsespecially PET-CF, when annealed correctly is way better than abs for printed printer parts
Anyone tried using a heated chamber with PCTG? What temp should I use
>>2806899You're retarded and you have a retarded attitude.Did I say I wanted a maintenance-free machine? Hell no.Did I say I wanted to avoid DIY entirely? Hell no.I don't mind working on something, as you put it, "from time to time". I don't mind extensive setup, as I said in my post. I just don't want to fuss with a printer every time (or even every few times) that I want to print some trinket.
>Browsing microcenter for filaments>Wtf is high speed ABS? How can it be different to regular ABS?Filaments finally showed up, and pic related.It's just regular ABS in a box with a checkered flag. The spool makes no assertion as to its speed capabilities, just lets you know it's basically regular abs. I got scammed to the tune of $4.>>2806986PCTG doesn't even require an enclosure. Consider that the heated bed is supposed to be 60~80C, so chamber temps of ~30C might be just fine.>>2806936This. PET prints at 300C+, much higher than PETG. It's also much more difficult to print unless it's PET-CF, and because >muh engineering filament it's $80 a kilo.
I want to 3D print a chain mail shirt, and there are plenty of little chain mail sample files, but no actual shirts, something that someone could wear. I realize that you don't just print out a whole shirt, but how do I actually go about shaping and assembling segments into something that could actually be worn?
>>2807131Why 3d print when you just to the traditional chainmail process around a hot rod with filament, then close the links with a soldering iron?forgot image.
>>2806988>print some trinketfound your problem
