>>92802271
What do I do with all my failed prints?
Would anyone want to buy or even just have them? Right now I just cut pieces off of them to replace on prints that didn't fail as hard.

File: Failed Prints.jpg (1.54 MB, 4160x1856)

1.54 MB JPG

>>92802598
>Forgot pic because I'm a retard.

>>92802598
You can always chop some bits off to add to bases.

water dont fuck up UV curing, does it? I put my models in to cure for 2 mins but my models are still wet and my caveman told me to put it in again until it wasnt wet anymore.
I mean, like will the water droplets difract the UVs into uselessness or something?

>>92803518
Water itself doesn't interfere with UV curing. Liquid DROPLETS act like lenses and focus the UV light, overcuring the spot that they're over. You want your prints to be fully dry (no water or IPA, nothing) before you start curing them.

>>92803848
okay, duly noted. Ill be sure to let them dry on my next batch. Fortunately, nothing Ive printed in the last two batches seems to be overexposed.
The models them selves didnt really have droplets, they were jsut damp.

>>92802271
>Buy something from or tip an artist/studio you like
fuck you give me free shit

>>92802598
>>92802609
Base them as casualties, use as background dudes in a diorama, combine them all into a eldritch flesh horror...or just throw them away

Have the usual trannygrams being suffering? Shit seems to pop up way slower, and way less often.
If things moved to new, more active places, can anybody nurglenintendo some links?

>>92805996
No?
But many groups have this unspoken rule to wait 2 month before a new release is posted, and someeven enforce iterated strict. But that has been a trend for at least year now

Anything in particular you were looking for?

>>92807237
I dunno. I'm aware of the two months rule, but it would make sense for the streak to be more or less uninterrupted at kind-of regular intervals (only, on a two months delay), but even the usually most shared ones (LotP - I know it changed name, Artisan Guild, Titan Forge) seems to be coming out spotty, with gaps between the months, and when they do they are often forwarded from somewhere else (to which you are not always able to click back) which gives me the impression that stuff gets more shared in places other than the (pretty florid until recently) ones I use to visit.

>>92807311
Could be, i do not pay too much attention to those "big" releases desu, they rarely have something i'm really interested in.

Just checked by searching for Artisan Guild, and i found the "Raid at the Temple of Ifrit"-Set (March 2024 release according to MMF) in several groups. There are also the sets for Feburary - January and December.. and i did not look for any others, but to me that seems normal, considering that "rule" of not sharing the last two months releases.

For Titan Forge, i found April 2024 "Norse" already, same for Lord of the Print "Northern Orcs" (also April release).

But for sure there are smaller private groups for sharing newer stuff too.
I can only recommend to ask for specific things if you really need something, often people will help you, or at least point you towards the right direction.

>>92803518
I cure mine *in* water. Read somewhere its a way to get rid of that tacky surface you sort of get sometimes when cured in air. Bullshit? I dunno, but I'll say it hasn't hurt anything and prints have nice surface results. They're wet anyways from the hot water dunk to remove the supports and it means I don't have to wait for them to dry to cure them so.... *shrug*

File: PXL_20240517_010339393.jpg (1.61 MB, 3072x4080)

1.61 MB JPG

My IPA looks cloudy and grey. Can I just pour it into another container and let it sit on a sum for the day and drain the IPA put to preserve it, while scooping out the resin particles.

How much of an improvement is there between 2k and 4k prints? and 8k as well . Borrowing a friends mars dlp printer and I cant get above 12 pins and voids on the xp2 resin test. Can’t tell if perhaps i’m just fucking this up or if I should just buy my own fancier printer if theres a big enough jump in quality before I start printing a lot more

>>92813645
Based on what other anons have said, it'll probably take more than a day in the sun. You can try to scoop the particulates out as you go, but cleaning your IPA out is going to be a long term thing.

Something that I've seen other anons suggest is a three-stage bathing process. Dunk your prints into one container of IPA so that it washes off the majority of the uncured resin, then proceed to the next one and so on, so that you have three separate containers with increasingly dirty IPA. Then as your later stage containers get dirtier, transfer the contents to the one before it, and any IPA you clean out should also go to the first stage container.

>>92813645
>>92814349
It definitely takes longer than a day, but exactly how long will depend on how dirty the IPA is and how much sun it's getting. For me, it usually takes about a week. Often I give it longer. When its cured, the resin will congeal on the bottom of the container and is easy to filter out.

Personally, I have 2 batches of IPA that I rotate between so I never have downtime. Also, it's probably not a good idea to put the whole wash station container in the sun, Id be afraid of the impeller getting gummed up. Transfer the IPA to some other airtight container to sun cure.

What is the best software for auto supports?
I've been using AnycubicPhotonWorkshop because I have an Acycubic printer. But the support functionality is SO shit

>>92813888
I don't know how small the holes get but it could just be an issue of exposure times and over exposing leading to bloom which would grow the borders of the print.

I've seen comparisons between 4k and 8k and there's a difference here and there in the sharpness of details in a print but unless you're looking at it super up close and unpainted, I wouldn't call it a massive difference. Same would hold for 2k to 4k (and obviously from 2k to 8k). I have an 8k screen and it's ridiculous the clarity I can get on microscopic details.

Doesn't really seem to be much cost difference between resolutions these days so if you were to buy a new printer I'd just go for one that could do 8k. I know there's 12k screens out there now but imo its overkill. I can already print details on the 8k that are frankly too tiny to be paintable or visible from 6".

>>92813645
>>92814349

I use a two stage wash too. Once the first one gets filthy enough I'll put it in a big pickle jar and set it outside to cure/settle for a couple days, then the second wash becomes the first wash and the second gets brand new alcohol.

>>92813397
That tacky surface is from incurred resin partially dissolved in ipa. In other words they're not properly washed, likely as a retailing of not using a 2 stage wash setup.
As for curing in water, technically oxygen prevents curing, which is probably why curing in water "removes" the tackiness, also any optical effects of the water should help reduce areas that are obscured to the uv. On a more practical note though, curing at elevated temps has proven to result in a stronger cure, so try curing in warm water.

>>92816128
Chitubox

>>92813645
seconding a 2-stage wash process. I have a big 5L tub of 'dirty' IPA that the whole build plate gets dunked in to get 90%+ of the resin off, and only then do my prints go into my wash station, which is always my 'clean' IPA tub. Haven't had to clean it out in many many print cycles now.

>>92813397
I looked into the science on water curing at one point. IIRC it's to do with the way the water reflects or refracts (I can't remember) the UV light. helps it bounce around all over the place, rather than just coming at the model from one fixed angle. Helps with models with lots of folds, creases etc, and you just don't have to meticulously turn your models as often. But definitely don't take my word for that, I looked this up 2 years ago.

File: tUdVP38Zddo.png (1.41 MB, 1080x1043)

1.41 MB PNG

Does anyone have loggyk edgy box builder and is willing to share? He removed shitload of stuff and I can't get it anywhere. In return, here's some classic escher.
aHR0cHM6Ly9nb2ZpbGUuaW8vZC9RNDhsNG0=

>>92818787
if you follow the @ in the FAQ it can be found in an adjacent group :)

>>92818909
couldnt find it there

>>92802271
What's the best $300 printer for printing figures?
Upgrading from a 2k Photon S and not sure whats the best speed/size/res wise in that price range.
Saturn 4?

>>92818787
>not a mega folder
im too dumb to access the stls...

>>92820435
Try and splurge a bit more and get an elegoo saturn 3.

>>92817168
>curing at elevated temps has proven to result in a stronger cure
Yeah I read about that just the other day. I've found my minis to be tough ~enough~ but it's so simple to heat the water prior that I'm going to have to try that next time.

Not really familiar with telegram, but looking for ork scans of any kind. I know nobody is going to give me links because "nice try, james" but how did you learn to search for this stuff. I know there are keywords, even if I dont know them. I just dont have money to buy anymore models thanks to inflation, but I have a friend that will help me print some of what I can find. I have looked for 3rd party that look semi close to gw's style because I wouldnt mind paying for good looking 3rd party. Got any favorite ork artists?

>>92821743
stationforge, mezgike, puppetswar are a few ork scupltors

>>92818787
aHR0cHM6Ly90Lm1lL3dhZGZhZHN0LzIxNTc0OQ

>>92821743
Start with "orc stl" or "warhammer stl"
Telegram has a feature that suggests you similar groups. Join all those public groups. Eventually you will see invites to private ones too.

File: 1664840004015474.jpg (52 KB, 600x449)

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>>92824593
>Dear James, let me show you how to find groups to take down. Please give me an upvote in your official subreddit.

>>92802598
Good opportunity for paint testing.

>>92813888
Screen size is just as important as resolution. The metric you want to measure is microns.

>>92821485
The preorder price for the Saturn 4 is actually better than the S3 at the moment.

>>92821675
What's your preferred method for dealing with the contaminated water? Warm water for removing supports and curing sounds ideal, but I don't have a good plan for afterwards.

>>92818940
that's a shame.

>>92821743
the FAQ has everything you need brother. I'd never used telegram before reading the FAQ.

>>92827205
the water should only have cured resin in if you're using it for curing, and when I've done that I just stick it inside my (boiling hot in summer) conservatory to evaporate off.

>>92827205
Yeah I just do what other Anon does; let it evaporate outside. We're talking about rather minute amounts of cured resin so I'm not exactly anal about how I dispose of it but just letting it evaporate out is what I do.

Anyone here or does your lgs offer a printing service? How do you come up with pricing?

>>92830921
Evaluate the market.

>>92830921
I add up what it costs me, and if they are not friends and family I charge a bit extra.

But you gotta not only think of resin cost. There's power, consumables, reduced life of the machine, slicing time, ... and your work time.

>>92813888
DLPs are a meme. You sacrifice resolution for extended printing life.

Does anyone have decent admech axes, or something of the sort?

>>92830921
I just refuse (politely) to print things when people ask. My printer doesn't have a permanent home so I have to write off part of my house any time I want to print stuff; it takes the best part of a weekend to do and my weekends are precious; the materials are hazardous and although I take precautions, I'm not taking that risk for someone else's flavour of the month.

That being said, if I was going to offer it as a service, I'd try and automate as much as possible (you can get webcams that use AI to monitor your printing for any emerging failures), and then come up with a cost along the lines of >>92835512.
So like:
>resin cost
>printer cost
>wear and tear cost
>space usage/rent cost
>power cost
>STLs/subscriptions cost
>cleaning and curing materials cost
>cleaning and curing station cost
>my time
Then apply these costs to a sample of say 10 popular prints, and compare to what the market is charging for those prints to know what your margin would be (or if it's just not worth your time).
I did the same thing with commission painting when I was like 19, decided I didn't want to turn my hobby into a job for a lot less money than I could get from a steady employment, and moved on.

File: 20240519_122936.jpg (2.1 MB, 4000x3000)

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Thus begins my Old World army. Printed at 0.02mm layer height, think he came out well. Just need a color scheme now.

Can 1k use convince an stl maker to sculpt an imperial guard army with infantry, sergeants, commissars, psykers, heavy weapons teams and a castellan? Or can I go slightly lower?

Asked in 40kg and figured I’d ask here as well.

>>92838819
>Can 1k use
I meant 1k usd

>>92825865
If you really think GW is too stupid to search for their own keywords on telegram, then you are really retarded.
But guess what: GW does not give a shit about those groups. All those claims against them come from those big STL-creators, because its them who actually loose money from the filesharing there.
GW does not give a shit if you download the latest Station Forge Krieg Proxies. Stationforge does care tho.

>>92830921

If they're friends FRIENDS, just have them buy you the raw materials and use those when you're printing something for them. Unless they're coming with an army (which is a different matter entirely) I'm not going to factor in whatever minuscule fraction of my power bill is their printing going to amount to.

If you're printing for somebody else, I dunno, factoring in everly little stuff is too complicated, as a rule of thumb I'd go with a x3/x5 the resin cost that your slicer gives you.

>>92839059
Wondering if that will change now that actual scans are popping out left and right.

>>92839059
OK GW

>>92839221
>Wondering if that will change now that actual scans are popping out left and right.

Absolutely, but those are usually kept within those smaller "paid" groups. At least thats what those guys who scan try.

>>92839275
You really thinks GW comes to 4chan to figure out how to type "warhammer stl" in a public app?
How stupid are you?

>>92839293
OK GW

Speaking about it, one of the bigger Krieg groups had to delete all the files, and its highly likely that either Makers Cult or Station Forge (and not GW) is behind that.

>>92839306
OK GW

>>92839279
Shit doesn't work that way on the internet, piracy even less so. Best case scenario they will get the one-two month grace period that maker studios have now, but a shelves to commonplace-stl pipeline inevitable.

>>92838819
Nobody exactly knows? It is not another krieg army that I would commission.

>>92840239
You will find out if you actually approach some 3d artists

>>92838399
0.02mm, nice. What printer is that on? I've kind of gotten out of the loop with current-day specs, I got a phrozen 8k and then a saturn 2 for the bigger build plate but never saw the need for anything higher res. But that said, 0.02mm is still very impressive.

File: Eclipse V2.gif (6.25 MB, 1200x1200)

6.25 MB GIF

Anyone has this STL from pipermakes?
I've been searching a lot and doesn't seem to be anywhere.
Here's some random stuff as offering.

YUhSMGNITTZMeTkzZDNjdWJXVmthV0ZtYVhKbExtTnZiUzltYjJ4a1pYSXZkSGN6Y0cxNlltUTJOWFprWWk5VGRIVm1aZz09

>>92843685
what is it called?

>>92843835
Filename

>>92843856
U1NCb1lYUmxJRlJoZFN3Z1lXNWtJRkJwY0dWeWJXRnJaWE1nYVhNZ1lTQmthWE5uZFhOMGFXNW5JSFJ5WVc1dWVTQmlkWFFnWW1WamRXRnpaU0I1YjNVZ2MyaGhjbVZrSUhSb1lYUWdjM1IxWm1ZZ1NTQm1iM1Z1WkNCMGFHbHpJR1p2Y2lCNWIzVWdMU0JvZEhSd2N6b3ZMMmR2Wm1sc1pTNXBieTlrTHpKU00weFFUZw

>>92843944
Thanks a lot, Anon.

>>92843944
I added more stuff as thanks btw.

I dunno if this is the right thread for it, but if I buy 3D-printed minis from a company, is there a standard for how clean they typically arrive? It would be nice if I didn't have to get a dust collector, goggles and a dust filter just for the sake of a few minis.

>>92844099
They should come cleaned and cured. Ask them if they provide this in the price. If they dont then dont buy from them.

>>92844099
Genuinely no, there is no rule for that. But you could simply ask them.
Some send uncurred resin, others you need to clean a lot, some just a little, some even sent their prints already primed.

>>92844038
no problem. it aint no fun if your homies cant get none ;)

>>92844119
>>92844122
Thanks. Damn, I didn't even consider that they might not even arrive cured. Would uncured models even survive shipping? Aren't those supposed to be all soft and stuff?

>>92844219
They are a bit more bendy in general. Not a big deal.
Some sellers just rush i guess.

I bought from Etsy twice: Stuff was cured, but in both cases (different sellers) there was little supports in hard to reach areas still on the model.
So to me, this is the state i would expect from ordering a print again.

>>92839306
Aw shit. I might be in that one group.
Most of the other non krieg stuff should have been safe right?

>>92802271
Do you guys know any less known places for cc0 (public domain) sources for stl's? Ive went through the usual places, like cults.

>>92844440
yeggi knows

So, scratchbuilding is fun, but I was adding up stuff for homemade curing and washing stations (30ish for a magnetic stirrer, 20ish for led strips, assorded cheap shit like solar turntables and big plastic containers which add up) and at this point I wonder if dishing out for a Wash&Cure station isn't a better deal.

Apart from the QoL aspect of having a tidy machine instead of an hodgepodge of scratchbuilt stuff, do they work any better than homemade equivalents? Like, nice reliable washing and a better light exposure (and better light quality) than ye-olde led-strip-inside-a-tin-can?

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What causes the issues on this cube, in particular the two bulges?

>>92847069
There are a few possible reasons, probably more than one thing wrong, but the first one you should fix is bad bed adhesion. The corners of the cube lifted up, and so it squeezed the later layers and the molten plastic had to go somewhere. And that can lead to all kinds of problems, like clogging the nozzle.

>>92813645
I just leave a UV lamp on over it for a couple of days, then drain and strain.

>>92847250
thanks, tried running a temp tower as well and it broke lose halfway through the print, clearly bed adhesion is an issue here

>>92844254
If they arrive still on the supports, should I assume they're also uncured?
I had an order of 4 minis that showed up on supports, I only washed them in an ultrasonic to soften them up before breaking them off, I didn't cure them. They're all primed now so they should be alright?

File: PXL_20240114_000350152.PO(...).jpg (1.56 MB, 4080x3072)

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>>92848173
Arrived still on supports? That's some lazy shit right there. I suspect if they couldn't do 2 minutes worth of support removal they also couldn't be bothered to cure them. I don't know what you ordered, but if there is uncured resin trapped anywhere in the model, it will cause pressure to build up in the pocket and crack your model open. It also may be unsafe to handle depending on what was left uncured on the model.
Heres a bunch of robots i printed to test paints on.

Saturn 4 ultra or should i splurge on the gk2? Like spec wise is there that big of a leap in quality for like 400$ more? Mainly want to print wh40k proxies, so detail on small stuff is what im looking for

File: 1716237603374.jpg (23 KB, 800x450)

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Does anyone make chudjak heads i can print for my space marines?

>>92813645
I dump all my dirty IPA in a big clear home depot bucket. The IPA evaporates pretty quickly, leaving me with a layer of resin at the bottom. I've been printing for three years and I've got about an inch of solid resin at the bottom. At that rate this setup should last for decades.

>>92830921
I'll print stuff for people if they buy me a full 1000g bottle of resin. I haven't bought my own resin in years.

>>92827110
Good idea actually
>>92813645
I use those pickle container things you can find on amazon. The one I bought was clear so I let it sit on a window sill for a day or 2, then I'll pour the IPA into one of those big yogurt containers through a reusable coffee filter, then back into the pickle container again.

Is there a huge difference between 0.05 and 0.02 layer height? dunno if its worth having my prints almost triple in time for just a little bit of extra detail.

>>92853406
Only with a magnifying glass or a camera lens. Save yourself some time and print at 0.05.

>>92853406
It depends on how much fine detail your mini has, the resolution of your printer, and the resin you use.

For example, I have some stuff I have been printing with some very fine texture and embroidery on the coat. With a Mars 4 printer, the default layer height of .5 wasn't cutting it with elegoo standard resin, but I got noticeably more detail at 0.3. However, on a Mars 4 the minimum layer height is 0.25 so there is literally no difference for anything less than that.

For many models, there may be no difference between 0.2 and 0.5, but for some there will be. Judge the mini based on how many very small, very fine bits it has.

>>92853406
You are going to see a difference in your macro hero photos. You aren't going to see a difference at table height.

>>92853406
there is no point going lower than the xy resolution of your screen. 0.03 would be the lowest worth going to but you will see no real difference to 0.05 without an inspection camera.

>>92853406

As for everything, it depends on what you mean to accomplish. If you (like me, like most) are printing for tabletop, 0.02 doesn't make any sense as a baseline. If you REALLY want, keep it for your HERO miniatures, like centerpieces, generals or Player Characters.

But even then, you can see individual teeth on a first generation printer at 0.05. I feel like, for most application short of actual technical stuff or high-end-painting of shit like busts, the ever rising numbers are little more than a meme.

I mean, I'll upgrade once my old reliable kicks the bucket, but I'll honestly never NEED anything more than that for my tabletop goals.

>>92853711
>there is no point going lower than the xy resolution of your screen.
There is, but most often its not worth it. Depending on your orientation it can look way better, but only in one dimension.

It's like FDM printing, the nozzle is most often 0.4mm diameter, so our "pixel size". Most people print in 0.2 or 0.1, and 0.1 leads to obviously better looking results on the sides with just as bad resolution on the tops.

>>92853406
I print in 0.02 if I either print something with big unbroken curves that will really show the steps (space marine shoulderpads) or want to use washes. Often the 0.05 layer lines are big enough for the inks to see as a recess and pool into.

>>92853406
I watched as many youtube comparison videos as I could on the subject before buying my first printer. As a result of watching the youtube vids, I went for the highest resolution printer I could (phrozen mini 8k, just released at the time). I printed my first test print at 0.05 before planning to step up to 0.02X, and yes I could see the layer lines on tiny spherical surfaces at less than a foot from my face, but I was so happy with the result overall that I never went lower than 0.05 after that (3000 points of models). Moral of the story: youtubers overanalyzing things far beyond their applicability to a real-world setting applies to print resolution just as much as it does with most other things.

>>92855238
>can look way better, but only in one dimension
>only in one dimension
as i said, no point

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>>92856461
>as i said, no point
If the look of one dimension does not affect you, why not print with 1mm layers? Way faster!


Increased resolution in the z-axis will have results in the XZ, YZ plane and no difference in the XY plane, so all slightly vertical surfaces will be affected.

>>92856545
Is that really the best a 3D printer can do? Even the right one looks horrible.

>>92857291
>Is that really the best a 3D printer can do?
Nope

>>92857335
But how much money, time and skill does it take to do better?

>>92857338
A 100€ resin printer, 20 min if your pc is a potato, not much more skill needed than using an allen key and opening a bottle

>>92857368
Thanks, I hope that's true.

>>92856545
there is a world of difference between a resin tabletop mini and a fdm bust. print yourself a dildo and go fuck yourself you pedantic faggot.

File: LoC.webm (1.15 MB, 1098x900)

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So yes, I'm sculpting this model again, I'll try to finish it before the end of the month, it has a fuckton of details and it is exhausting but it has lots of symmetrical shits too.

>>92858188
whats happening at the top there between the wings/shoulders?

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>>92858749
it is a shitty armor or something like that

>>92858775
oh. i thought the neck coming out of the chest was a placeholder until you finished that bit. its looking pretty good and now i know what that pic of feathers was a while back was for. is it based off a specfic model? i can only imagine how many locs have been put out over the years.

File: LordOfChange.jpg (704 KB, 2617x3529)

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>>92862279
>is it based off a specfic model?
Yes, it is this demon of Tzeentch, my Magnus took less time, I want to at least finish the armor this week.

>>92865132
May I see it?

>>92858188
On one hand, my first instict was to ask why the hell should you sculpt a LoC when there are countless, ultra-detailed ones out there.

On the other, I commend you for sculpting your own shit and actually put in the work instead of always saying "Yes, I should learn, that would be cool" like I do.

>>92865161
My Magnus? sure >>92835400

>>92865208
I have a Great Unclean One too, just figure

>>92865239
Pretty neat.
Will you upload it somewhere or is it for personal use only?

File: 1708770831319986.png (406 KB, 1010x576)

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Can anyone explain whats the difference between the FEP film that you used to have in older printers and the PFA film that's now commonplace with Saturn 2 onwards? Does resin adhere less strongly to PFA?

Also do I still need to spread a thin layer of PTFE lube on PFA film after cleaning the vat with isopropyl alcohol? Does that actually do anything or is it just a meme?

Thanks in advance for clearing it up

>>92865264
Ty, I've shared sculpts from artworks and some scans here a couple of times, I don't even have a cults3d account.

>>92865343
they're sister materials; for the purposes of 3d printing, PFA is just better (stronger, withstands mechanical stress for longer). Lubing your film is a meme; I've never done it, prints still work.

Does anyone know why only a tiny bit of a print would warp? Its really odd.
Ive printed out a biovore that I fused together as a single model, everything came out perfectly except for one leg which "melted" sideways a bit and theres visible print lines on it (its still attached and luckily I did a test print of some parts so was an easy fix with an exacto replacement)
Is it a temperature issue? If theres an underlying issue I need to fix I want to do it now and not when I next print.
I already fixed the issue so no pic but heres a 300 hour diagram I made

The strange thing for me is how little of the model this effected. It was genuinely just a small part of a single leg of the full mini

File: bioleg.png (14 KB, 893x506)

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>>92865621
>Does anyone know why only a tiny bit of a print would warp? Its really odd.
>Ive printed out a biovore that I fused together as a single model, everything came out perfectly except for one leg which "melted" sideways a bit and theres visible print lines on it (its still attached and luckily I did a test print of some parts so was an easy fix with an exacto replacement)
>Is it a temperature issue? If theres an underlying issue I need to fix I want to do it now and not when I next print.
>I already fixed the issue so no pic but heres a 300 hour diagram I made

>The strange thing for me is how little of the model this effected. It was genuinely just a small part of a single leg of the full mini

Would help if I didnt forget the image

>>92865630
supports came off the piece, which then wiggled itself until the print managed to pick it off the FEP again.

>>92865679
Is there any way to avoid that? Just bad model orientation when generating supports?? I'll run a plastic scraper through the vat to see if theres anything else stuck there. The legs were the first thing to print though, so it would make sense if the issue happened early

>>92865697
post a pic of the supports you used, could just be bad luck, could be poor supports and you got lucky with the others, could be fep damage, or resin not being mixed enough, and sometimes it just happens.

>>92865630
Probably bad supports, but I had something similar once when I did not screw my plate tight enough and it rotated a bit mid print.

File: supports.png (388 KB, 728x708)

388 KB PNG

>>92865755
It was just the autosupports on voxeldance. Never had an issue before after tweaking them with my test prints a while.
>resin not being mixed enough
This might be it, as I had just poured out the last of an older bottle which had been sitting there for a bit. I did mix it together but only gave it a few seconds after mixing before printing.

>>92865849
see how the whole thing is held on that one tip support until it gets all the way up to the thicker parts? thats bad supports, add one or two more on the way up and it wont wiggle.
see how the same leg on the other side has more supports on the way up.

>>92865239
Incredible stuff, my man. You are doing god's work.

>>92848173
some shops deliberately send prints slightly uncured as the resin won't be as brittle during shipping - the extra flex means you won't have as many broken parts, hopefully (although this can be cured with a fantastic invention called bubble wrap)
if it is uncured, just let it sit on your windowsill for a couple of hours (during the day, of course) and it'll be fine

what are some tips to make gluing pieces easy?
should I use super glue?
should I do it before or after curing?

>>92802271
I need recommendations for FDM terrain that'd work for killteam

>>92872833
I recommend doing an internet search using a engine designed to look for 3d models.

>>92873474
nah